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All right, here we go. Planning another project
I am getting the asbestos containing internal wall and ceiling lining removed from two bedrooms and so I need to reline with Gyprock.
Haven’t never done this I have few newbie questions:
Any advise is much appreciated!
Thanks,
Tom
Hi @tom138
I believe the gap at the bottom is for movement, should the wall frame or floor move it will not crack the plasterboard. The gap will then be covered with your skirting board. In regard to working around doors and windows you'll need to cut panels to fit, the joins will be hidden once you start plastering.
In regards to plastering the ceiling my only tip is to measure the space between the beams so that you can maximize the use of the plasterboard. As to the installation of a batten frame into the cavity wall, if the frame was assembled as a single unit to be made to stand up then it would be possible for you to put a vapour barrier behind the frame.
Here are some handy step-by-step guides:
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Hi @EricL ,
Thanks for your reply!
I am assuming there will always be a bit of a gap around doors and windows, what’s the best way to seal it? Caulk?
How about around the exposed beams? Do I need to put a timber moulding like it is now or can it be square set without it?
With regards to the “battens” - this was an autocorrect What I mean to ask was whether I can install wall and ceiling insulation batts (like Earthwool) into the cavity before I install plasterboard even if there is no vapour barrier/membrane under the existing cladding?
Thanks for your help,
Tom
Hi @tom138
Your absolutely right that gaps near the door and window frames will be unavoidable. However, your goal is to minimize those gaps and make sure that your cuts are as straight as possible. This means that you won't have to use a large amount of gap filler around those areas. I suggest having a look at Selleys 475g No More Gaps Interior Multipurpose Gap Filler to fill in those gaps.
As to the exposed beams, I'm afraid you'll still need to use timber moulding as liquid gap fillers will droop when applied on a horizontal surface.
If there is already a timber batten frame existing, then putting in insultation would be an effective way to increase your walls thermal properties.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Thanks @EricL. Although this - “your cuts are as straight as possible” - worries me a bit
Would you recommend the Gyprock Easy Flow All Purpose Compound or the Less Mess Multi Purpose Compound?
Is it better to screw or nail plasterboard?
Also, am I understanding it correctly that I am limited by my frame thickness when choosing what R value insulation to use so I might not be able to go for better than R2.0 if my frame is only 75mm (not sure what is it yet, I guess I will only find out when the existing lining is removed.
Thanks again,
Tom
Hi @tom138
I've always used the Multipurpose compound, it's ready to go and easy to manage. You can either use screws or nails, both will do the job. I suppose it all depends on which one you find easier working with. I prefer screws myself as I often hit the nails too hard and damage the plasterboard.
You're correct regarding the insulation thickness. Best to wait and find out how thick your frames are before making any purchase.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Afternoon @tom138
I like your next project! Can be hard work but will look good at the end!
When I was doing the plastering in my garage I spaced the bottom piece of plaster off with a flat sheet of plaster (I thought because of moisture before but reading Erics reason makes more sense) I am am glad I doid as water did enter the garage floor and if the plaster wa sto the floor it would have wicked up the sheet in no time at all!
I figured the gap would be covered by the skirting boards as well. It really came up nice. I plastered up to the edge of the windows and door frames as a straight edge. The only issue i had wa snot using enough mud to secure the paper join between the sheets lol Almost got it right but was more "scared" to put more down as I would have to sand it off. Here is part one of the project Garage lining for stud walls stage 1 if you wantto take a wander through it. I have done small sections of plastering before but never a whole room.
I used cup headnails and goop for attaching to the studs. I figured the cup heads would allow the plaster to adheare to them better. I also stuck plaster direct on the brickwork with the goop. Its still there and no issues.
Looking forward to watching your project unfold
Dave
Hey @EricL,
my thinking on screws vs nails exactly.
Im getting my shopping list ready and I’m trying to figure out how to do cornices. I am not a big fan of fancy cornices and would love to have a square set ceiling but based on what I’m reading might be too difficult to do for a novice. So I’m looking for something minimal. Especially considering I’ll have to put moulding around the exposed beams. Do you have any recommendations?
I was looking at these https://www.bunnings.com.au/porta-19-x-19mm-2-7m-moulding-white-pine-fj-primed-tri-quad_p8480057 or even these https://www.bunnings.com.au/porta-30-x-18mm-2-7m-primed-finger-jointed-pine-dar_p8260130?store=7363&...
Can these be used instead of classic plaster cornices? I can see @Dave-1 also used timber mouldings on his project. Thanks for the inspiration @Dave-1. You did a brilliant job. I’m hoping mine will be much more straightforward!
Thanks,
Tom
Hi @tom138,
Sure, if you're going for a minimalistic look, you can use either of those profiles instead of cornices. You'll just need to ensure the roof and wall sheets meet close enough in the corners for those smaller profiles to cover.
Mitchell
Morning @tom138
Thank you.
I would class myself as a novice for sure and even tho the corners were hard to figure out I wouldnt say "too hard" and probarly be mostly mistakes I made while making my own cornice up
The only thing that comes to mind over "fancy cornice" and a "square set cornice" is the ability to sorce the product if you ever need to repair it.
If you see a type of cornice you like or keep coming back to, buy a length and see how well you make the joins. Its one thing I did. Just remember that most rooms are not perfectly square Nothing to loose and imagine how nice an indervidual cornice could be!
Dave
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