How to install VJ panels on a timber frame?

[SPP]

Hi, 

I want to rip off my old MDF walls and place brand new VJ Panels onto the timber frame. 

From the videos I have seen, the timber frame needs to have a set spacing.

Can someone here explain why the timber frame needs to have set spacing. What if the spacing I have is not as per VJ Panel manufacturer specification. What can I do in this regard? 

Regards
Sree 

[MitchellMc]

Hi @SPP,

Installing VJ sheets on ceilings and walls can be a bit challenging, as it requires precision and attention to detail. However, the difficulty level can vary depending on factors like your level of experience, the condition of the surfaces you're working with, and the specific techniques you use. 

It's often hard to gauge exactly how difficult a project will be until you start working on it. However, many of our members have tackled similar projects and have successfully completed them. They'd be more than happy to share their expertise, guide you through the process, and answer any questions you have along the way. Let me tag a few of them, @crafthopper, @EleventhCoastal and @TheRenoDad, to see if they have some input 

Mitchell

[Dave-1]

Morning @SPP 

I havnt tried to do that before but some things to consider.

How are you going to conceal the joins? 

Any dips and valleys will show up with the joins.

Getting the joins to look even on the ceiling.

You could shim various sections but then I am not sure how the product will hold up as its meant for a verticle suface.

You could use various types of trim lengths to hide the joins but then you run into accentuating the actual join.

Dave

[SPP]

@Dave-1, @MitchellMc and @JacobZ 

Sorry for the lack of replies. 

I guess for me, I do have a installation manual that I can reference. Maybe the major issue for me here is fear, fear of what could go wrong if I was to mess up. 

Also, I ordered door jamb materials, it claims to be 113 mm x 30 mm x 5.4 m. The width of the door frame (timber studs) is only 75 mm, do I need to order new materials or what else should I do? 

[Dave-1]

Evening @SPP 

I understand that fear 100%, mistakes mean you have to redo, plus costs and added stress. However how else do you get what you want? I have taken that leap a few times and mostly they work out the way I expect, or eventually they work out. (you can see mistakes I have made as I post them to show thats what we all do) Just remember its YOUR place and YOUR project, you have it in mind for what you want and are working towards it. You can see it better then us. Maybe a way forward is to try what you want and at the same time have a Plan B in case you dont like it? Different sheeting for the ceiling, different styling or even a mixture of both. (plaster plus the board)

As to the door jamb, I am not sure what door you are referencing at 5.4m unless its a typo? but if you break down a wall frame from side on.

You timber studs are 75mm (timber studs I think are usually 90mm)

plaster would be 12mm 

other side plaster would be 12mm

= 113mm 

I'd say the door jamb materials are right, you may need to trim them down with your wall material being different. Doors are confusing (I had a carpenter mate help me out with mine as I was unsure and yes I did pay him lol)

Sometimes taking a breath and stepping back, have a coffee and maybe sketch through some ideas has helped me.

Dave

[JacobZ]

Hi @SPP,

I completely understand the fear. When I was learning to hang sheets, I was terrified of what could go wrong, but I was also lucky to have some experienced guys around me to give advice. 

If you follow the installation manual, ensuring to use the correct fixings, in the proper quantity, in the proper locations, any issues you have will be purely aesthetic. The great thing about that is there's always a way to fix minor aesthetic issues and the Bunnings Workshop community is always going to be here to help.

The best advice I can give is to mark your stud locations on the ground, so you always know where they are, measure once, stop and think if there's anything you're missing, measure a second time, have another think, then cut and install the sheets. 

You're in a lucky position, as you are working for yourself, where there is no time limit. If you keep it slow and steady, plan things out and follow the installation manual, you'll probably find after the first couple of sheets that it is not as hard as you thought.

Regarding the door jamb, unfortunately, unless you are comfortable ripping the material down with a table saw or circular saw, you are going to have to replace the material you have ordered. 

The door jamb, as @Dave-1 has said will need to be 75mm plus the thickness of the material on either side. Just as an example, Porta 92 x 30mm 38mm Rebate Primed FJ Pine Door Jamb Sets are used when the timber framing is 70mm and there is 10mm plasterboard on either side, whereas Porta 110 x 30mm 38mm Rebate Primed FJ Pine Door Jamb Sets are used when the studs are 90mm with 10mm plasterboard on either side.

I'm happy to recommend a more suitable material if you could let me know what the material is on the other side of the doorway.

As Dave-1 has said, doors can be tricky. It took me 10+ doors before I was comfortable installing them without supervision. Like anything else, it is about following a process, but if you want the best results possible, it might be an idea to have a carpenter install the door for you.

Please remember that we are always here to help. I was lucky to have experienced guys there to guide me. I am happy to do the same for you.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

[SPP]

@Dave-1 

I suppose my major concern is that I am on a tight budget and also tight time frames and given the money and time I have already invested into this project, I don't want to make mistakes that are costly to fix. 

That being said, it is undoubtedly true that the only way to learn is to make mistakes. I am honestly thinking of paying a professional to do these rooms whilst I observe and practice requisite skills on some other rooms that are the next part of the renovation project. This way, I have the guarantee of knowing that the work will be done quickly (I need to move into those rooms for health reasons) but also learning. 

Regarding the door jamb, I have linked below to the door jamb that I have purchased. Hopefully this gives a better impression of what challenges I am facing. 

https://vjplus.com.au/product/pinetrimplus/door-jambs/single-rebated/ 

From what I measured yesterday, the width of the wood that the door jamb goes onto is 75 mm. 

@JacobZ  

I think the best way forward for me is to look through the installation manual, post the process here and confirm that I have understood it properly before I proceed with attempting to do it on a "dummy section". 

Regarding the door jamb, I will reply to that soon. 

[JacobZ]

Hi @SPP,

Understandably, you're considering having it done by an experienced professional. It can be daunting, taking the risk to learn a new skill when all the costs are considered.

There's no shame whatsoever in deciding that you'd like to err on the side of caution. 

Often, it's enough to see it done in person, for you to feel confident in your ability to do it in the future so this might be a perfect plan for you.

If you can confirm the measurements for the door jamb, I'd be happy to point you towards a more suitable material that will work for you.

Let me know how you go.

Jacob

[Dave-1]

Evening @SPP 

I have had three doors done by myself and my carpenter mate, I am fairly confidant knowing what to, the truth will be when it comes to me installing a door myself I "Think" I can. Id go with your feelings and what @JacobZ has suggested. Find a friendly carpenter that dosnt mind you being the labourer, expect to have the time be more then if the carpenter was working on their own (I say I added at least 1/3 of the time extra lol I talk a LOT and ask LOTS of questions) Chalk it up to a new tool that you are learning to use. That way you know the door will be right and you have seen it done, It goes a long way to building confidence.

Dave

[SPP]

Thanks for all the input @Dave-1, @JacobZ and @MitchellMc  

Before I fork out too much on renovations, I need a temporary solution for the blinds in those bedrooms. 

Once the VJ sheets and architraves go up I don't really want to go nailing into them unless absolutely necessary, what can I use in the meantime? I was thinking of gluing something onto the aluminum window-frames.  Any suggestions? 

[EricL]

Hello @SPP 

From an installation point of view, it would be better to drill into the timber wall or timber frame of the window rather than gluing or drilling into the aluminium. The reason for this is that any error made on the timber surface can be repaired and filled in. 

The same can't be said for the aluminium frame. Not only will it be difficult to remove the adhesive, but it might also damage the finish on its surface. If you're worried about the hollow nature of the VJ panels, I suggest using Ramset 8 x 50mm Universal Anchor - 4 Pack. But it is always prudent to check behind your wall just in case there is a stud behind it.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric