How to fill the holes and gouge in my door?

[vica]

Hi, mates.Good morning!

The handle of my bedroom (image1) is out of work. I removed the old handle and now there are two holes in the door( image2)

Second problem ,the flush pull of new handle is 7mm length,but the old is 12mm, much bigger than new one. (Image3)The old handle also left a gouge in the door.( image 4)I need your guild to fill these holes and gouge before I install a new handle.The thickness of the door is 40mm. Thank you so much!

vica

 

 

 

 

[newfast]

@MitchellMc  thank you for the link for clamps.

Re Packer Timber is there any other option? Bunnings within 5km doeant have the specific item and Delivery is $40

 

[MitchellMc]

Hi @newfast,

It appears there might be two similar but different methods of repairing the door being advised at the moment. As per our previous discussion and @TedBear's  method, you were going to go with the timber blocks to fill the cavity. @r23on is suggesting strips of the masonite glued behind the front skin using G-clamps. Both methods establish a working surface at the correct height for you to adhere your new masonite. I'll include an image below to illustrate. It would be best to decide which method you'll use. With @r23on's method, you won't need the packer timber and you can simply use strips of the masonite adhered to the rear of the front skin with glue and G-clamps.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

[newfast]

This is how it starts....is it normal  for the blade head to become loose while cutting?

Edit:- Sides are hard to cut for me

 

 

[r23on]

Mitchell could you show newfast the small g clamp that are available please

[newfast]

Wooo hoooo 

Time for a beer nah kidding

Except blade head getting loose , rest went well.

Any specific tool I need to clean the edges?

@MitchellMc thank you for flagging the difference between @TedBear and @r23on  approach

Given my tradie skills...I want to use the easier option and that is ?

   

 

[newfast]

I was very nervous around corners and you can see the not so close to trim cutting...

But would like to thank  you everyone involved in this!

  

 

[MitchellMc]

@newfast,

I'd suggest removing the cardboard honeycomb and using your Ryobi 18V ONE+ Multi Tool with the sanding attachment.

Mitchell

[TedBear]

Hi @newfast , I hope I don't add confusion, but now seeing the inside of your door I suggest that you leave the honeycomb in, as it will prevent the new piece from bending inward. I also suggest now, that you go with @r23on's method of only adding support at the edges (since seeing the honeycomb means you need less support in the middle than would be if the door had been hollow). Just remove  enough honeycomb at the edges of the opening to allow the strips to slide in half behind the existing panel, as described by @r23on. That will give enough support to hold the edges of the new insert in the right place. When you glue it in put some glue on the edges of the honeycomb too to help keep the new panel flat. 

[r23on]

Hey good effort with the multi tool if you take your time you can clean up all the section you have missed then with some sand paper clean up all the edges.

The section you have taken out becomes you template.

Grab some cardboard place the cut out section on the  cardboard and draw around it. cut out the shape them place it in the door to see where you need to add or remove from the template once you have the shape as close as possible lay it on the new section of marinate draw around and cut the new section out.

Now the fun begins you will have to reshape until the new pice will fit into the great big hole you have

when the new section is glued in fill all the gape with timber mate filler and sand back

A good hand chisel would come in handy to help clean up some of those edges.

There’s one other point I have suggested you use three packers to support the new section one each end and one in the middle. the first drawing shows the placement of each packers, hence all that honeycombed can be removed if need. Using packers of the back skin assumes no warping and packers glued to the back skin are not sitting on any of the warped skin. From one of your photos the back of the door has a large crack in it as will. So I will assume the there will be a degree of warping on the back skin.

[newfast]

Good morning Team,

Thank you for comments and direction for next steps.

Could you please validate the following just to make sure I got it right;-

1. Order 2 GClamps, 1220 x 915 x 3.2mm Masonite Whitecote, hand chisel, good wood glue (some items link provided by @MitchellMc )

2.Use hand chisel to clean all 4 sides.

3. Use the removed panel as a guide to cut the shape out of Masonite.

4.Remove honeycomb as required using sander head of multitool.

5. Also need to cut 3 strips from same Masonite, wooden glue on ends and then they will be inserted horizontely in the hole with both ends behind the trim.

6. Also put some glue on various places including existing trim edges so the newly cut panel can be glued.

Questions:-

1. Re Step 3- Am I still using Multitool to cut the required section?

2. Wheen to use putty knife, it was mentioned in one of the earlier posts?.

3. Only glue is required no lequid nails?

4. Why does multitool head kept coming off?

Please do let me know if anything else I need so I can order in one go from Bunnings.

PS - By the look of the newly opened board, I am unable to see any damaged in relation to

"From one of your photos the back of the door has a large crack in it as will. So I will assume the there will be a degree of warping on the back skin."

Edit- It looks like there is another panel between the inside part (whr crack is) and the front....Honey comb is glued on this panel (brown colour).

It apoears to be a 2cm from trim to brown panel and if we are sliding strips horizontely behind the trim there is a depth of approx. 8cm or so on both sides.