How to fill the holes and gouge in my door?

[vica]

Hi, mates.Good morning!

The handle of my bedroom (image1) is out of work. I removed the old handle and now there are two holes in the door( image2)

Second problem ,the flush pull of new handle is 7mm length,but the old is 12mm, much bigger than new one. (Image3)The old handle also left a gouge in the door.( image 4)I need your guild to fill these holes and gouge before I install a new handle.The thickness of the door is 40mm. Thank you so much!

vica

 

 

 

 

[newfast]

Hi @r23on - I have confirmed, he is using 3.2mm masonite

Hi @TedBear - Thank you for the detailed reply and highlighting the process in point form....when I am reading your post, it feels like doable based on the clear instructions but I do not have faith in my DIY skills and never used Multitools etc. But may be I should start learning about these....

So far no reply from Menshed but assuming its Covid lockdown so not surprised.

Sent another 5/6 emails to door manufacturers and 2 have refused and 1 can but the cost be around $1K and even he suggeated to go with Option 2.

During my discussion with choosen trades person did mention about using the cut piece as a template but I am not sure if he will be removing the door (I'll check if door will be removed and timber be inserted for support)

Overall he mentioned it be not longer than 4 hrs job and paint is not included as part of the option 2 scope.

This is a great initiative by Bunnings and all the members who provide wealth of knowledge FOC , really appreciate it!

Ps- not sure if this crack will be filled at the back or it is nothing to worry about

 

[TedBear]

I hadn't noted the back panel damage, but if it is behind the damaged front panel, then placing a piece of wood over it through the front, when the front panel is off,  would enable it to sit flat again and it would be fairly simple to then fill the cracks. When it is flat and supported, use the corner of a scraper to gouge the cracks out a little, which will then enable the filler to grip. If cracks are too small and shallow, the tiny amount of filler in them just falls out.   Removing the door isn't essential, but it would make it easier to work with if it was laying down. If a tradesman will do it without removing it, that will be in your favour since that would take less time & should cost less. 

The cost of a multi-tool will be less than the quotes you have. You could practice the task by clamping a strip of scrap wood to a bit of the new panelling (the sheet will be bigger than you need). That would simulate the join between the existing panel and the moulding, so you could get confidence in the technique of using it before tackling the actual door. 

When I first bought a Multi-tool, I didn't think I'd use it much... I was wrong and now on my second one. Very good for working in awkward places, cutting notches, sanding corners, etc.

[newfast]

Hummmm

I do have Ryobi garden gear with 18v one battery abd only thing I need is skin $99 ....

[TedBear]

That's likely to be a good choice.

If you don't think you'll have any other use for it and need to save money, there is also an XU1 for $35, but I haven't actually used it, so I don't know it's limitations. It's probably worth investing in the Ryobi.

[newfast]

Hi @TedBear 

I might visit bunnings before it become online

Could you plz elaborate #5 of from the previous list -inserting timber

If the door is hollow and I need to glue timber at the back of new panel then how will it fit in

I am unable to imagine with my limited (not so handyman)  imagination

Do I need to glue it first then place it in or stand the timber inside the door and put new cut panel in front and push it back untill it sticks with the timber?

[TedBear]

Hi @newfast , I see from the pics of the damage that the door is hollow inside, with no honeycomb support. You will be able to measure accurately the gap between inside of front and rear panels. This is the thickness of the required packing. It could be made of strips of thin timber, (pine is light and easy to work with) or several layers of the new panelling, or a combination of both... what ever gives you the correct thickness. You could make up lengths that go from the bottom of the door up to just past the (to be) cut-out section. That will help keep it in place. I suggest glueing it in so that you don't have nails showing through the door. If you ensure that you place at least one strip through the area that is damaged on the back panel, it will also push that back out to where it should be. If you make enough vertical strips, you can put them close together (say 100mm apart) and not need any horizontals. Al though it would be a good idea to place some support where the new panel joins to prevent the edges from being able to move. Even just some scraps of the panelling glued inside at the edges (to form a lip for the panel insert to align to) would do for that. Use Liquid Nails [LN ] as a glue, and also dab some Hot Melt glue along the strips edges just to hold them in place while the LN sets. The new panel will then have something to hold it in place, otherwise it would fall through. Use Liquid Nails on the strips to glue that panel in place.  If the door is still in place, you may want to put a few quick dabs of hot melt glue on some strips to hold the panel while the LN sets, but you have to be quick so the hot glue doesn't set before you push the panel on. (Alternatively, use some fine panel pins nailed in slightly and at a slight angle through the join. They will keep the panel in place temporarily and leaving the heads sticking out will enable you to pull them out when the panel is set. You will need to fill those edges anyway, so the tiny nail holes will be hidden.  I hope that makes sense.   If not I will see if I can make a sketch.

[TedBear]

Hi again @newfast 

I have attached a sketch -  but I'm not sure if it will clarify or confuse.

(Clearly I was never meant to be an Architect.) 

If you can remove the door it will make life easier... by laying it on its back on a table for example, will help you to push the back panel damage flat  again from the inside.  Just ensure that one of the packing strips rests against the damaged bit to glue and hold it back in place. 

To get the right thickness, if there isn't a timber strip available that is the right thickness to fill in the gap, you can get a thinner piece and pack it out in a few places. To get more precise thickness you may need to notch out any extra thickness from the upright packing strips (as shown in the diagram - pieces "B"). You don't need to have it correct thickness all the way up the strip, just enough places to push the piece forward and make it sit against the inside of the front panel. (The straight front face of each packing strip is all that needs to be correct to align the inserted replacement.)

[MitchellMc]

Many thanks for your detailed responses, @TedBear. They're really appreciated.

Mitchell

[newfast]

@TedBear 

I think you are beating all the Architects and draftsperson!

Thank you

[r23on]

I hope you are not put off with all the discussions. As stated you feel your limited skill set and lack of tooling hold you back from attempting the task. With all that has been said and what you have tried I think the end result would be to consider the chap who would cut the complete section out and replace it with the section of masonite. With the crack in the back that can be look at once the section at the front has been cut out, from there the repair of the back can be considered hope this helps