China Cabinet, what stain and varnish?

[Wouldy]

 

This is my new project. Just restoring it. I stripped the veneer off the top last night. I also took out the broken glass panel from the door and the smaller broken panel on the left side. 

I'm just wondering what stain and varnish to get for the finish? Below is a chart for wood types. I'm look for a light yellow birch finish. I think that is the closest match to the color. What do you think? 

There are some minor scratches and scuffs on other parts of the cabinet. I am actually reluctant to touch it. No sanding back if not needed. I'm wondering if I should use a mixture of actually just rubbing some if the scratches out with a microfibre cloth and a liquid solution I have here? 

For the deeper scratches and scuffs I'm not sure what to do yet. Any suggestions? Remember it is veneer. Thank you. 

[Wouldy]

Hi @MitchellMc and @redracer01 

I am stuck and feeling very frustrated. I really need to get this done. I have bought timbermate wood filler - pine. I have applied and sanded. Need to do some more sanding. 

What is concerning me is that the pine color to match the wood is still just a tad dark. I'm concerned the Cabots Maple Stain and varnish is still not going to conceal the wood filler? I can't do a test because I don't have any test pieces to use. 

It may end up being alright. I also bought the feast watson restore and it worked amazingly. 

This issue though I need to get soted out quickly. I'm just not sure if it is going to work or not? 

I've spent a fair bit on it already. Not keen to spend more. What is your experience if Cabots Maple Stain and Varnish with Timbermate Wood Filler- Pine? If any? 

 

 

 

[redracer01]

Hello @Wouldy 

In these situations of restoration my only recommendation is to break out the fine painting brushes and carefully paint over the filled areas to disguise it. You will have to find a super light stain that matches the finish of the timber, paint it in a timber pattern and not as a whole. Tedious and time consuming yes, but its the only way I know of to hide the filler. Usually saw dust from the cabinet is added to filler so that it matches the door finish and you wont have to paint it. But in this situation as you have already filled it our only option is to disguise it and to try to hide it to the best of our abilities. 

Your other option is to go in the other direction and be daring and dark stain and lacquer the entire cabinet. The dark stain will hide the repairs and give your piece a very bold image. Definitely out of the ordinary and not just your regular pine finish. But to what level of daring your willing to go to is up to you. If you've set your heart to a pine light finish then you know what you have to do. I hope my suggestion gives you ideas to explore your options and consider other possiblities.

Cheers,

Red 

[Wouldy]

@redracer01 

Hi. I think I am going to go with the first option. I am staining and varnishing with Cabots stain/varnish maple. I cant paint it with fine brushes using that product? 

The only other stain/varnish I have is timbermate oak. 

Considering that the door and top piece of tye cabinet needs to be maple, I'm not sure how that will work? Not sure if the timbermate stain/varnish is light enough? I am thinking that it may be? 

The second option actually would mean removing two panels of veneer. I consider that to be more time consuming than the first. That is unless I can fully sabd back the veneer with an orbital sander. At this stage though I am still unsure whether to go down that route. 

What is your advice? 

[redracer01]

Hello @Wouldy 

I would suggest the easier of the two options. Lets try painting ( as in giving it a fake timber look ) the fillers first and see if we can get away with it. If it blends in then that would be fantastic as it would save us from having to do more work on this cabinet. If not you will still have to experiment and find a suitable light stain to disguise it. I'm afraid you will have to judge with your eye as it is difficult to gauge from photos the actual finish. Please remember that using the same stain and varnish in the same spot will give it a much darker finish and will make it stand out. We are aiming for blending and disguise.

Perhaps you need to take a step back for a moment and do a bit of ponder. Do you plan on selling this piece or giving it away or keeping it? Is time of the essence or do you have all the time you need? Is this practice and discovery or are you committed to see this to perfection. Once you've committed to a course of action then the steps you need to take will be much clearer and you can be more confident that these are the steps that you need to make to finish the project. One step at a time, slowly but surely.

Red

[Wouldy]

@redracer01 

Hi again,

Thanks for the extra advice. I will do some pondering and see what I come up with. Once I have solved it, I will put up photos. 

Wouldy. 

[Wouldy]

@MitchellMc @redracer01 

Would you be able to recommend a gloss for me to put on the cabinet once I have finished varnishing/staining? I am gathering the feast watson furniture restore will not do the job of giving it that nice glossy finish I am after? Thank you. 

Wouldy

[Brad]

Is Feast Watson Surface Restore the product your using?

It is an oil and wax product that will buff to a high sheen, water based products may have adhesion problems that an oil based product may get around. I would stick with your first choice and put the work into getting the most out of it rather than taking the risk of mixing products that may have compatibility problems.

[MitchellMc]

To echo @Brad's response, the Feast Watson 250ml Surface Restore is a tung oil based product that can achieve a glossy finish if you continue to buff it with a cloth. Its purpose is to rejuvenate dull sections of a coating, restoring them to the original high sheen finish.

Please let me know if you have further questions.

Mitchell

[Wouldy]

@Brad @MitchellMc 

Thank you for your responses. I ended up borrowing some clear varnish off a friemd of mine. I will do one coat of it to see how it turns out. I have used cabots stain/varnish maple. I intend to put this clear varnish over the top of it. 

I am not using the feast watson restore on top of the cabots stain/varnish. I have used that only to restore other parts of the cabinet which has worked very well. 

I think to leave it without a clear varnish over the top would be a pity because it will not look nice just left as is. The rest of the cabinet is glossy and shiny, so it makes sense to add a clear varnish over the top and door. Nexr time though before staining/varnishing, I am going to put a wood conditioner down. 

[JoeAzza]

Hi @Wouldy 

i helped rejuvenate a similar cabinet, however, I only repaired the broken glass panels and damage lead section, the cabinet was found at a kerbside rubbish collection, it was badly deteriorated at the base, once I had repaired the Leadlight panels, the owner restored it by using shoe polish, the one that comes with a sponge attached and not much else, he wanted to keep the original look, see photos attached.

 

 I have photos of when I received it for repairs if you want me to post them.