Best way to stain my wooden stairs and handrail?

[larry8]

I recently moved into a new house - it was built about 4 years ago. The wooden stairscase feels like it was never stained/varnished as it looks quite different to the floorboard which are darker and glossy. I was hoping someone could give me some tips about staining these stairs and handrail. I've watched some videos online and understand that I'll need to sand them down, prime and then apply a few coats of stain. Do you have any recommendations for this job and what product would be best to use? How can I make them nice and shiny/smooth at the end? Thanks very much for your help. 

  

[JacobZ]

Hi @larry8,

Thank you for your question and welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community, it is fantastic to have you with us.

It certainly doesn't look like it was stained or varnished, but it may have had a clear penetrating oil applied to it

What you've said is correct that you'll need to send them back to prepare them. After sanding them, brush them with a soft-bristled brush or thoroughly vacuum them to remove any sawdust, and finally clean them with mineral turpentine to help remove any remaining oil.

A clear polyurethane varnish can come in a variety of finishes such as gloss or satin. There are also stain and varnish products that can be used to change the colour of the timber and protect it in the same way the clear varnish will.

Do you have any photos of the floorboards you could upload and are you trying to match them as closely as possible?

This would certainly help me offer advice on a specific product you could use.
 

Once you've uploaded images of the floorboards, I'll be happy to give further advice.

Let me know how you go and if you have any further questions.

Jacob

[larry8]

Hi @JacobZ ,

Thanks so much for your response and advice. I have attached photos of my floorboards. Ideally I would like to match the colour of the stairs with the floorboards. Based on the floorboards and their colour, which of the options do you think would suit best? Thanks again!

 

[MitchellMc]

Hi @larry8,

To me that looks to be a very similar coloured timber, if not the same. The colour difference is likely that of the timber with a clear oil-based coating on it. Oil-based clears tend to throw a golden hue, which develops more as they age. Since they are so similar in colours I don't think you could add a stain to bring it closer.

Here are the preparation instructions for Cabot Oil-based CFP. As there is a possibility of there being a matt natural coating on there I'd treat it as a previously coated surface and do the test section.

PREPARATION

Note: Fill nail holes, cracks and other defects with Cabot's Wood Tone Putty after applying the first coat of this product for accurate colour matching. Remove stains, dirt, wax, grease and oil with mineral turpentine. Remove any polish with a suitable floor polish remover.

Bare Timber

Sand the surface smooth using 180 - 240 grit sandpaper. Sand only in the direction of the grain. Remove all traces of sanding dust.

Previously Coated Floors

1. Thoroughly clean the surface with Cabot's Floor Clean and allow to dry. Sand with 180 - 240 grit sandpaper and remove all traces of sanding dust.

2. Apply one coat to a small test area. Allow to dry for 12 hours. Press sticky tape firmly to the surface and pull off quickly. If the coating comes off, sand back to bare timber.

3. If coating adheres well, sand the entire area with 180 - 240 grit paper for good adhesion, remove dust, then follow application instructions.

APPLICATION

Apply with 6-10mm nap roller, Brush, Pad applicator.

Note: Do not shake can.

1. Stir thoroughly with a broad flat paddle before and during use.

2. Apply product with a pad applicator, good quality brush or 6 - 10mm nap roller.

 

BARE TIMBER FLOORS

1. Use a brush to cut in around the edge of one section at a time. Apply along the length of 3 - 4 boards, keeping a wet edge to prevent lap marks.

2. Allow to dry for a minimum of 12 hours, then lightly sand using 240 grit paper. Remove all sanding dust. If product does not sand to a fine powder it is not dry enough to recoat.

3. Apply the 2nd & 3rd coats as above.

 

PREVIOUSLY COATED FLOORS

1. Apply 2 coats working along the length of the boards. Sand between coats with 240 grit paper.

 

I'd encourage you to do a test section in an inconspicuous area to determine if this colouring is right for you. Note that as the oil-based coating ages, it does give off a more honey-like hue.

Also, since these are stairs, you'll need to include the Intergrain 200g UltraGrip Additive to prevent slipping. You'll feel this additive under bare feet, but trust me, without it and in socks, you'll do some serious injury, so it's a must-have.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

[larry8]

Hi @MitchellMc 

That's extremely helpful! Thank you. 

I believe someone previously may have suggested a water based clear interior varnish such as https://www.bunnings.com.au/cabot-s-250ml-satin-water-based-cabothane-clear-interior-varnish_p152040...

Do you have any thoughts on that? And if that was the one to use, would it still require an antislip coat?

Thank you again.

[MitchellMc]

The water-based version won't change the colour at all—well, not enough to push it close enough to our desired colour, @larry8. Water-based is always my first choice, but to get that honey hue, I think you'll need to use oil. You could always try the water-based version on a test section.

I'd recommend that anti-slip be added to any timber stair coating.

Mitchell