Recycled Oregon dining table

[LePallet]

A good mate of mine pulled these facia beams off an old house and asked if I could turn them into a dining table.
The glue up was challenging with the timber only being 30mm, so I ended up glueing the planks in separate sections.

The Legs were welded together with 50mm thick by 100mm tube steel.

 

 

 

 

 

[MitchellMc]

Hi @LePallet,

What an amazing project once again, your scope of talent is really boundless! May I please ask what you filled the voids in the timber with and what was the finishing coat you applied?

Mitchell

[LePallet]

@MitchellMc  much appreciate, i have been wanting  to make my first dining table for a while now. Looking forward to my next one.

there are two different methods I use to fill voids. The main product is a two part resin, also known as epoxy. The one I’ve been using and can be purchased at a few timber yards in Melbourne is called West System. 

[LePallet]

Ratio is 5 parts resin - 1 part hardener. This is clear and I also have a little bottle of black  Pigment paste which makes it black. There are a lot of factors to go by in order to get the right outcome, but like everything - practice makes perfect. Choose the cracks, knots especially, nail holes you want to use with the resin, may take a few refills as the resin tends to soak into the timber and soak into small voids. I wish Bunnings stocked better and more useful resin than what they have at the moment which is one product that I wouldn’t use again.

Second Method  I use is wood putty, this can be purchased at Bunnings and comes in a variety of colours to match the timber your using. For colour name for black is Ebony. This method is great for small cracks, nail/screw holes. The benefit is it can be used to fill small cracks, dries fast within the hour depending on temperature, and then it can be sanded back with a sander. Removalist excess resin is the same method but dry time can be more than 10 hours.

Once everything is sanded well, I then applied a clear satin oil which works wonders with hardwood timber but also timber tops like this Oregon. The brand is called Osmo Poly-x oil.

[MitchellMc]

The contrast between the black infill and the timber is fantastic @LePallet. Many thanks for the added detail on what products you used for it. 

Mitchell

[pete_brig]

Noice work @LePallet--this popped up in response to my post

Love the grain, imperfections, & colour of the finish. 

How did you edge join the lengths--biscuits?

Cheers, Peter

[LePallet]

cheers @pete_brig 

yeah I had to biscuit the lengths being only 30mm. I also put a brace underneath to add more strength 

[arumnixon]

Hi @LePallet, just saw your table after posting about how to finish a recycled oregon tabletop myself. Looks like the wood I had was very similar to yours from the pictures. Table looks fantastic!

I've checked out the Osmo poly-x oil you mentioned. I think you said you used the clear one, wondered if you'd any experience using their 'raw' finish instead on oregon? Seems like it might give more of the finish I'm after - ie closer to the natural sanded look of the wood.

[LePallet]

Hi there @arumnixon 

the raw finish will be a good  option as it will keep it a raw look without changing the colour too much. It’s a great product and you don’t need a lot. 
Osmo can be applied by a 4mm Nap roller.