How to restore Mango wood dining table?

[Nadjrose]

Heyo restoring a lovely mango wood dining table that was incredibly sticky and shiny from many wax coats. 

I have stripped it all back and am now in the sanding process.

The table was made with boards, not a slab, and I'm hoping to have more of a slab look and less uneven on top!

Should I be trying to even it out with staining or sanding? 

We have a walnut stain (foodsafe etc) that's supposed to need 3 coats.  

[JacobZ]

Hi @Nadjrose,

You've done an absolutely wonderful job so far. The sanding has really brought out the natural beauty of the timber.

Mango wood is a dense, slightly porous hardwood, so it doesn’t absorb stain as unevenly as softer woods like pine. While a wood conditioner is commonly used to prevent blotching, it’s not essential for mango wood, especially when using a water-based stain. Since you’ve sanded to a fine grit, the surface should already be well prepared for an even stain application.

Before staining, the main thing is to ensure that every last bit of sawdust has been removed from the surface. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove as much of the sawdust as possible, then wipe the surface down with a lightly damp cloth. Allow the surface to dry and then vacuum again.

Make sure you gently stir the stain with a paint stirrer; don't shake it, as this will introduce air bubbles that can cause blotchiness.

When applying the stain, use even strokes with your applicator pad, working in the direction of the grain to ensure a smooth and uniform finish. Apply thin coats rather than trying to achieve full coverage in one go, as building up the colour gradually will produce the best results and give you the most control over the look. Let the stain sit for about 5–10 minutes, then wipe off any excess with a clean cloth to prevent a patchy or sticky finish. Work in manageable sections to maintain consistency and ensure proper drying time between coats as recommended on the product label.

With water-based stains, there is usually no need for sanding between coats, however, the addition of water can make wood fibres stand up. After the first coat of stain has dried, run your hand over the surface. If you feel some roughness, it is worth giving the surface a light sand with some high-grit sandpaper. If you don't feel any roughness, you should be fine to move on to your second coat.

The best advice I can give is to take your time. It's been a slow process up to this point, so there is no reason to sprint to the finish line. Apply thin coats, working up to the desired finish and feeling the timber as you go.

I can't wait to see the finished product. I'm sure it will look magnificent.

Jacob

[Nadjrose]

Thank you for this excellent and comprehensive response!

I look forward to posting pics when I eventually finish it 😊😊

[Nailbag]

Wow @Nadjrose this is starting to look awesome, you have done a terrific job in the sanding. 

Before staining, wipe the top down with long wipes down the grain with tack wipes. These will remove any micro fine debris for a smoother finish. 

As @JacobZ mentioned, you shouldn’t need to sand between coats. But if you feel any fine wood hairs after the first coat, just lightly run 1200g paper evenly over the entire the top and not just in any area. Doing so especially on first coats will leave noticeable changes in finish. 

Look forward to the final photos. 

Nailbag

[Dave-1]

Afteroon @Nadjrose 

That is looking brilliant, And @JacobZ's level of knowledge is well and trully above mine I have nothingto even think of adding! 

Dave