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Hello @kn_ll,
Thanks for your question on replacing your kitchen tap. Our resident Bunnings D.I.Y. expert @EricL will be happy to assist once he's back online later today.
In the meantime, let me tag our ever-helpful members @DIYGnome, @JDE, @Dave-1 and @Tyro to see if they have any thoughts.
Akanksha
Good morning @kn_ll
I always cringe at the amount of room around sings for tools to be used 😕
From your photos it looks like if you use a spanner (not an adjustable one) you may be able to get it in place to hold that nut and then undo the large nut on top.
More likely You may need to resort to wedging a large flat bladed screwdriver at an angle between the flat side of a the nut and edge of the sink to stop it turning then Undo from the top.
Another question tho, is the copper pipe connected to a fitting that you can disconect before it goes into teh wall/floor? If thats the case then Id undo the clasps that hold the sink in place and take the sinkl out to rowk on it. Crossing fingers this is the case for you.
Dave
Hello @kn_ll
Thanks for sharing your question about replacing your Dorf kitchen taps. For easier removal, I suggest dismantling the hot and cold taps first. Once the taps are loose you can then disconnect the copper pipes which will allow you to pull the "T" or Brasshards Breech Basin Tee off. Don't be alarmed, what you are seeing is true, the spout is only connected to the centre piece by friction of two O rings.
You can literally pull the "T" off and then you'll have access to the locking nut of the spout. Please make sure that your mains water is turned off and your plumbing system is depressurized to prevent accidental flooding.
However, if it is a threaded brass "T" connection, you should be able to unscrews the spout from the top connection. If you are no longer recycling the tap set, I suggest using a shifter to turn the base of the spout and see if you can unscrew it from above. I recommend turning the base of the spout anti-clockwise to loosen it up.
Please note that it might be necessary to engage a licensed plumber to complete this type of work. If in doubt consult your local building authority before you begin.
If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.
Eric
Hi @kn_ll
I don't have a picture of the spout with the lock nut on it. But as I mentioned, I recommend removing the hot and cold taps first and then you'll have access to the lock nut under the spout.
If you need further assistance, please let me know.
Eric
Hello @kn_ll looking at the images supplied your locknut will be exposed when you remove the T pipe as mentioned by @EricL should you wish to remove the spout section of the tap the area circled in red denotes the location of a Allen key grub screw which when removed will allow you to then retract the spout.
Looks like a large adjustable wrench (or Stilsons/Pipe Wrench) will be required to hold the top section whilst a large socket (or something suitable) will be needed to undo the lock nut, a second person would be handy.
Hi @kn_ll
It all looks like a headache for you! But you have received some excellent advice from the Bunnings team helpers @Dave-1 @EricL and @DIYGnome !
That type of project is something I haven't had to tackle. However, when I have problems getting spanners to grip round pipes I wind a solid rubber band firmly around one of the arms of the spanner - the ones the posties use are brilliant!
Good luck!
Cheers 🤗
@EricL and everyone thanks your help. Sorry I havent replies as I had a hernia operation and today I managed to replaced old taps with mixer. I have a further question regarding thread seal tape (white) - I unscrewed the copper connection to the wall and on screwed an isolating tap to it before connecting the mixer flexible braided hose. I threaded about 6 turns of tape and hand tighted the tap. I then used a spanner to align the tap to fit the hose, however minute amount of water leaks out. Do I tighten another turn or do I untighten one turn and retighten, or add more tape - would this cause the tape to break and reseal? The original connection uses plumbers hemp and plumbers putty(?) to seal. I clean this out before applying the tape.
Some feedback on my project- I needed 12 inch adjustable wrench to unscrew the taps. I unscrew the grub screw from the spout and the spout then unlugs. The spout hole was 26mm so I had to drill it out to 32mm. The lock nut under the sink was welded to the TEE connection therefore only unscrew from the top. Once unscrewed the Tee can be removed from under the sink. The flexible braised hose that comes with mixer was too short by 20mm because the water connection to the sink was to one side, so I am off to Bunning tomorrow to buy a 50mm extension.
Hello @kn_ll
It's good to hear that you've recovered from your operation. In regards to the connection of the isolating tap, I suggest removing the tap and adding more tape to the connection. If it continues to leak I suggest adding BOSTON 50g Liquid Sealant and trying again.
If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.
Eric
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