How to reinforce pantry shelves?

[robjow]

Our Pantry shelves, especially the top ones feel like they are struggling with the weight of items and that if I put anything heavy on there could collapse off the wall. I just want to keep light items on the dodgy upper ones but the fiancée insists I reinforce the shelves. How could I go about this? 

 

 

  

[Jason]

Thanks for joining in the discussion on Bunnings Workshop @robjow. It's great to have you join us. 

Let me tag one of our resident Bunnings D.I.Y. experts in @EricL as well as some helpful members like @Jewelleryrescue, @wooshka and @JoeAzza to see if they can share their thoughts on how they would reinforce or replace those shelves. 

Welcome to the community and please feel free to post whenever you need a hand or have a project to share. 

Jason

[Dave-1]

Good afternoon @robjow 

Just a quick question, can you see how (underneath the shelves) they are attache dto the wall? 

You could go for two ways to re-enforce the shelf.

- Put another strip of timber behind the front timber to stop the flex (Just screw through)

- Better yet, install two or three verticle pieces of timber the same size as the ones under the shelf. One on the right side, one on the left side of the shelves and one in the middle. Attach them at each point the rail goes past the shelf. That will stip the flex and give it strength. Id put two screws through at each connecting point (Diagonally at the point they overlap)

Dave

[Jewelleryrescue]

Hi @robjow 

Are those shelves drooping in any way when you load them?   Because  they look well built all be it with a slight gap forming under the shelf which may indicate the left  and or right wall mounts being loose not screwed in to a solid stud behind the plaster.

Can you test the shelves for me by simple trying to push them up and down at the left right edges and wall mount and see if they move amd poughly how much the move.  Thanks.

Anatomy of your shelves the strength comes from the vertical timbers forming a box shape under the shelves and if they are screwed into some strong stubs in wall that shelf was built to last.

Having said that there is a simple DIY solution you can do and start really loading those shelves up at need.

All you  need is some basic pine timber 75x35mm(or  melamine chipboard 300mm with  approx only cut one length under shelf) and cut 2x lengths of timber if used  so they snuggly fits end on under the middle of the bottom shelf to the floor make it 0.5mm too long as a guide and wedge it into place. Place one at the front of the shelf and one at the back.  You may put a 30 -40mm chipboard holding screw down through the shelf into the centre of the timbers.

Now the first shelf to the floor is supported at the middle and will easialy double its load capacity.

Repeat cutting timber props upwards between first shelf and second shelf to support more shelves.

[EricL]

Hello @robjow 

My apologies for the late reply. It's great that you've received excellent advice from @Dave-1 and @Jewelleryrescue. Just to add to the suggestions made, I propose having a look at the 42 x 19mm 2.4m DAR Pine Premium as it looks to be about the same size as your shelf frame. Putting short timber pieces across the front and back of the shelf frame should reinforce the top shelf.

I recommend using Zenith 8G x 40mm Countersunk Rib Head Chipboard Screws. Because the timber frame is not very thick, I suggest drilling pilot holes into the timber pieces to prevent them from splitting. 

Another timber piece you can use is 70 x 35mm Framing MGP10 Untreated Pine 2.4m. This is a much thicker piece of timber and will therefore require longer screws such as the Zenith 8G x 50mm Gold Passivated Countersunk Rib Head Chipboard Screws - 50 Pack. Since these timber pieces are much thicker, I recommend fixing these to the left and right side of the shelf frame.

I also suggest adding extra timber screws to the existing shelf frame itself.

Please remember to wear personal protection such as gloves, goggles and mask when working on your project.   

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

[robjow]

Thankyou  very much all for your replies. I like the suggeston of @Dave-1 and @EricL - I just want to check I have understood it correctly? (see below)

oh an obviously screw into the front  of the frame too.

Thanks

[Dave-1]

Morning @robjow 

Not quiet but ive edited your pic to show what I mean.

The three vertical red pieces are timber  supports, the green circles are where I would attach the vertical supports to the  crossbeam support of the shelves. The green arrows mean to the floor.

You could use just a center post, or two posts or three posts depending on what you think the shelves may carry.

Dave

[EricL]

HI @robjow 

The blue lines you've drawn will reinforce the shelves and allow you to put a bit more weight on it. But Dave-1's recommendation will really let you pile on the weight. 

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[robjow]

Hi all,

Just an update:

Went with a 1.8m piece of Hardwood that matched the front wood colour that I cut into pieces and used some 10g x 65mm countersunk screws to secure.

It looks great and solid as a tank now, thank-you all for the help.

I am a little worried about the bottom piece sitting on tiles, could I put some silicon or something around it to prevent it from moving?

 

[Dave-1]

Evening @robjow 

That looks great! Solid as a rock and blends in nicely

Silicon may work but how about a rubber strip that you can glue under it to attach to the tile? moroday 40 x 3mm x 5m small adhesive seal roll Not necasarily the adhesive backed one but something that is glueable to the tile and provides a "grip" so it wont skate out from underneath.

Love it as is btw.

Dave