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Difficulty: Intermediate
Transform your laundry with a custom benchtop, adding both style and functionality.
This guide details the process of creating and installing a laundry benchtop, offering a cost-effective and straightforward way to upgrade your laundry.
Our project was completed in a European laundry, but a similar process could be used for a benchtop in a kitchen, bathroom or full-sized laundry room.
Measure and cut benchtop.
Measure the space for your benchtop. Ensure you measure at both back and front as there may be variation, especially in older homes.
Mark the location for your cut on your benchtop and position that line between your work-platforms. Clamp a straightedge, such as a level, in place as your saw guide and cut.
Mark sink location.
Turn the cut section over so the top is upwards. Clamp to work platform.
Decide on the position for your sink and use a template to mark out. Just inside the marked line, drill a 12mm hole to allow you to start your jigsaw cut.
Mask benchtop and cut sink hole.
Use painter’s tape to mask the outside of the cutout to protect from scratches. Insert the jigsaw’s blade into the drill hole and start cutting on a medium speed.
To turn the saw smoothly, slide the back outwards rather than directing the front. Don’t force the cut.
Reposition the benchtop as you cut so the cut section is supported when the cut finishes.
Create holes for the tap.
Mark the position for the tap and use a hole saw to create a suitable sized hole (size per instructions with tap). We also added a 60mm hole towards the rear left to provide access for the washing machine power cord.
Install the rear bench support rail.
Your benchtop will need support rails if it is not supported by a cabinet.
Measure from your cabinet to the wall and cut a length of 65 x 18mm timber to fit at the rear.
Locate and mark the stud positions. Use a long level placed on the cabinet as a height guide for your support. Pre-drill your rail and the studs.
Remove the rail and apply a generous amount of construction adhesive to the rear. Reposition and screw in place with 75mm screws.
Install the side support rail.
Measure for the side rail. The length should be 50mm less than the benchtop depth.
Cut the 65 x 18mm timber to suit and cut a 45-degree angle on one bottom corner for the front. This will give a neater finish. Repeat step 5 process to attach to wall.
Prepare and coat benchtop.
Use a sander to smooth any rough edges of cuts and to gently round the front edges of the benchtop.
If a cut was made for the sink, apply a bead of clear silicone to the face of the cut and then push into the grain with a flexible scraper. This seals the timber in case of leaks.
Clean both sides of the benchtop with sugar soap wipes. Sand down lightly. Remove any sanding dust with a damp cloth.
Follow any product-specific instructions to coat the benchtop. Both sides will need to be coated. We used a pad applicator to apply. Apply in full length, even and straight strokes. Ensure the end grains and edges are well coated. Re-coat as recommended, sanding lightly between coats.
Secure benchtop.
Once the oil has fully dried, gently lower the benchtop into place. Use the included angle brackets and screws to secure the benchtop to the rails and base cabinets.
Cut a length of your 65 x 18mm DAR Pine to support under the bench next to the sink cutout. This strengthens the area where material was removed. Counter-sink and pre-drill at centre and towards edges of the bridging rail and then secure with 25mm screws.
Add silicone and fit sink.
Add a thin bead of silicone adhesive-sealant under the lip of the sink. Position the sink in the cut-out and press down firmly. Place something heavy (such as a bucket filled with water) in the sink and leave at least overnight. If excess silicone squeezes out the sides, remove promptly with a cloth and methylated spirits.
If applicable, add the duct (with shutter) for your power lead.
Your benchtop is now installed.
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