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Difficulty: Intermediate
Privacy screens are a great way to protect your privacy. They can also reduce the amount of harsh sunlight entering your space and hide unsightly views.
Turn your deck or patio into your own private and relaxing retreat with this easy-to-build timber screen. It is secured using existing posts and the house wall.
Please note that many elevated decks above 1m require suitable balustrades or other non-scalable fall prevention measures. Ensure that any screen you build is appropriate for your space and situation.
Measure your deck’s width. We cut 66mm x 42mm timber to suit.
Clamp cut sections down on saw horses with their ends flush.
Find and mark centre. From your centre line, mark out 21mm on either side. This gives you a 42mm section that you’ll be cutting out. Set saw to a cutting depth of approximately 15mm. Use a rafter square to cut the outside edges.
Then, run multiple cuts through the centre and space them evenly.
Cut three sections of timber 66mm long from the end of a piece of 92mm x 18mm timber. These are riser blocks to allow for good air circulation under your frame.
Next, pre-drill the outside of one length of cut 66m x 42mm block and screw down with 30mm screws at the centre and ends. This section becomes your frame base.
Measure sides and centre. The sides sit inside the top and bottom of your screen frame. Remember to allow for the frame’s thickness with risers and rebates. Cut pieces measuring 66mm x 42mm.
Paint all cut sections to weatherproof faces that will be concealed.
On a level surface, lay out your frame sections in their positions. Make sure you have enough space for the finished frame to stand. Position a side section above the base and drill two clearance holes through the base to insert 100mm screws.
Hold the side section in correct position and use the bit for the pilot holes to drill through the clearance holes.
Next, move the side section away from base and drill pilot holes.
Countersink the bottom of the base. Then, position the side section and drive in 100mm screws. Repeat for all corners and the centre section.
Position frame. If needed, carefully knock it into place using a rubber mallet. You can also hit a block of wood against the frame with a hammer.
Align your frame with existing posts or structures. A level can be used if required. It's important that the frame is aligned with its structures.
Once positioned, clamp the frame in place. Pre-drill and then drill 100mm construction screws in place.
Measure your frame's internal height and cut two pieces of 18mm x 18mm timber to suit. These will sandwich your horizontal slats, so you will need two lengths for each end and four for the middle support.
Using your nail gun or hammer and nails, attach cut lengths of the timber to the inside rear of the frame. Make sure the lengths are also flush with the outside rear.
Cut the required number of slats and stack within arm’s reach. To get the required number of slats, you can divide your overall height by the slat width. Remember to account for the height of your riser blocks.
Next, cut spacer blocks from 18mm x 18mm timber. These blocks set your levels, so they need to be cut accurately. Set up a cutting jig to ensure consistency. You will need two blocks per slat.
Place a pea-sized blob of construction adhesive into each corner and then firmly push a spacer block into place. Do this on both sides of the frame.
Position a cut slat on top of your spacer blocks. Then, push firmly down and towards the support trim and attach using the nail gun. Repeat these steps until all slats are installed.
Use a suitable filler to fill nail holes and any gaps. Sand down once dry and wipe clean with a damp cloth. If your timber is marked, use a sugar-soap mix. Once clean and dry, you can paint.
Apply at least two coats. You’ll find that the small roller will easily fit in the gaps between slats, making it easier for you to paint their tops and bottoms.
Once the paint has dried, you can enjoy your new private retreat on your deck.
Quick-release clamps
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