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How to build a flyscreen frame

MitchellMc
Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Difficulty: Beginner

Creating a custom flyscreen frame is a fantastic way to keep pesky insects out while still enjoying fresh air in your home.

 

This detailed step-by-step guide takes you through the simple process, ensuring you can quickly and easily build a flyscreen that fits your window perfectly.

Video Tutorial

Steps

Step 1

Measure the space in the window frame.

 

Start by measuring the width and height of your window’s inner frame. Use the measuring tape and measure at multiple points since windows can be slightly irregular.

 

Write down the exact measurements as you'll need them when cutting your flyscreen frame.

 

1.1 Measure frame height.png  1.2 Measuring frame width.png

Step 2

Cut the frame.

 

Set up the mitre box on a flat surface to ensure precise cuts. The mitre box will help you cut the ends of each piece at a perfect 45-degree angle, ensuring a clean fit with the corner connectors.

 

Using a hacksaw, cut the aluminium frame pieces to the measured size.

 

2.1 Cutting frame.png  2.2 Frame cut.png

Step 3

Join the frame together.

 

Insert the corner connectors into the ends of the frame pieces to join them together. Press firmly to ensure the joints are secure and the frame is square.

 

You can check they are square by measuring the diagonals - they should be equal.

 

3.1 Inserting corner braces.png  3.2 Corner brace installed.png

Step 4

Test fit the frame.

 

Place the assembled frame into the window opening to ensure it fits properly. This is an important step to check for any adjustments that may be needed.

 

If the frame is too large, use your hacksaw to make adjustments to the frame pieces or adjust the connectors as necessary for a snug fit.

 

4.1 Test fitting frame.png

Step 5

Cut and insert the flyscreen.

 

Lay the flyscreen mesh over the frame, cutting it with the utility knife while leaving a small overlap on all sides. This overlap is essential for securing the mesh properly.

 

Use the roller tool to press the spline into the grooves of the frame, which will hold the mesh in place tightly.

 

Once secured, trim any excess mesh with the retractable knife for a clean finish.

 

5.1 Laying flyscreen.png  5.2 Installing spline.png  5.3 Excess spline cut.png  5.4 Cutting excess flyscreen.png  5.5 Flyscreen cut.png  5.6 Frame in position.png

Images

1.1 Measure frame height.png

1.2 Measuring frame width.png

2.1 Cutting frame.png

2.2 Frame cut.png

3.1 Inserting corner braces.png

3.2 Corner brace installed.png

4.1 Test fitting frame.png

5.1 Laying flyscreen.png

5.2 Installing spline.png

5.3 Excess spline cut.png

5.4 Cutting excess flyscreen.png

5.5 Flyscreen cut.png

5.6 Frame in position.png

6 Replies
Noyade
Kind of a Big Deal

G'day @MitchellMc /Bunnings.

Any tips/tricks when working with steel (aluminium?) fly mesh?

I truly struggled.

MitchellMc
Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Hi @Noyade,

 

Did you have any particular issues? I know it tends to split if you pull the mesh tight before inserting the spline. I've experienced that before, and the key is to use the spline's insertion to pull slack out of the mesh.

 

Keen to assist.

 

Mitchell

 

Noyade
Kind of a Big Deal

Cheers @MitchellMc 

 

I've got two screen doors to reapply metal flyscreen.

When it gets warmer I'll get back to you and this thread.

Cheers!

Nailbag
Kind of a Big Deal

Great tips for a common DIY project @MitchellMc. I've replaced countless fly screens and keeping it square hasn't been to much of an issue. But what I find the most challenging is to keep the tension up without pulling in the sides on larger frames. In some instances I have cut a piece of 42mm x 18mm DAR pine to the inside width and positioned it in the centre of the frame to stop it pulling in. Do you know of a better process to prevent this from happening?

 

To @Noyade issue, metal fly wire is another level of challenge just to roll it in place that I can't see possible by using a hand roller. 

 

Nailbag

MitchellMc
Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

The best option would probably be to install a mid brace on larger screens, @Nailbag. These Rolltrak Flyscreen Cross Brace Clips are used to create them.

 

The only other advice I could provide is to not pull the screen taught prior to inserting the spline. If you look at a flyscreen frame, many companies purposely produce it with a bend to it away from the inside. The lengths look like bananas on the shelf. After some investigating, I found out that this is to try and help counteract the issue you've experienced where the frame is pulled too far in. However, back to my advice, only take the slack out of the flyscreen before installing the spline, which should then pull it taught and not distort the frame. If you pull it taught first, inserting the spline then puts too much tension on the frame, which can distort it or the flyscreen rips.

 

Mitchell

 

Nailbag
Kind of a Big Deal

Thanks for those extra tips @MitchellMc which I'll take on board. Unfortunately the large sliding door frame job didn't have the med-section spreader to keep the outer frame from pulling in. I'll probably make a temp spacer next time.

 

Nailbag

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