How to fill gaps in 10-year-old Lilly Pilly hedge?

[Franca]

Hi,

I have a number of mature Lilly Pilly Hedge. In my opinion it’s very gappy.

 

 

  

It has a lot of dead branches in the middle. I am worried that if I prune it back it’ll lose all the leaves and I’ll be left with only branches.

The trees are around 10 yrs old.

Just the other day it got infected with white scale which I need to address.

So my question is: is the plant ok or could I do something to improve the foliage?

Cheers,

Franca 

[JacobZ]

Hi @Franca,

A warm welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community, it is fantastic to have you with us.

Mature Lilly Pilly hedges often develop interior gaps as older, shaded wood dies back and light struggles to penetrate the centre. 

To rejuvenate your hedge without leaving it bare, use a phased rejuvenation pruning approach by removing up to one-third of the oldest stems each season or alternating sides each year to stimulate fresh shoots while retaining a leafy framework. I'd suggest this phased rejuvenation should be started at the end of Winter or early Spring when it begins to heat up, as this is the best time for pruning hedges.

To tackle the white scale, check out the advice in How to control white wax scale on my Lilly Pilly hedge. There is some great discussion on how to tackle a similar, but seemingly more vigorous issue.

After pruning and pest control, improve soil health with mulch and fertiliser, and maintain good air circulation to encourage a dense, vigorous hedge.

Allow me to tag our resident garden gurus @mich1972 and @Noelle to see what advice they can offer.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

[Franca]

Hi,

Thanks so much for your reply.

When you say cut back a third of old wood, do you mean cut it from the inside of the plant?? Or the top?

[EricL]

Hello @Franca 

When doing a phased rejuvenation prune on a Lilly Pilly, it's best to remove selected branches at different heights—some low, some mid, and some higher up—to gradually refresh the plant without shocking it. Start by choosing roughly one-third of the plant’s total branches to cut back in the first stage as suggested by Jacob. This allows the plant to continue photosynthesizing and staying healthy while you promote new growth. 

Focus first on the oldest or least productive stems—particularly those that are woody, sparse, or clearly underperforming—and cut these right down near ground level or just above a strong shoot if one is present. This encourages fresh, vigorous shoots to emerge from the base of the plant.
 

In addition to cutting down some lower growth, you can also shorten selected branches in the middle and top parts of the plant. This includes any that are crossing over each other, growing leggy, or creating imbalance in the plant’s shape. Make your cuts just above a leaf node or outward-facing bud to encourage bushy regrowth in a healthy direction. As you prune, aim to open up the centre of the plant slightly by removing crowded or inward-growing branches. This improves air circulation and sunlight penetration through the foliage, which helps reduce the risk of pest infestations (such as scale) and fungal issues like sooty mould.
 

Always use clean, sharp secateurs or loppers to avoid damaging the stems, and try not to prune during periods of extreme heat or frost. After pruning, it's important to support the plant's recovery with a balanced fertiliser—Yates Dynamic Lifter is a good choice—and follow up with deep watering. Applying mulch around the base of the plant will help retain soil moisture and suppress weed growth while the plant regenerates. 

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric