How to secure a shed gate? Rivets, rivet nuts, wafer screws, tek screws?

[victoriacalhoun]

[EricL]

Hello @victoriacalhoun 

Thanks for sharing your query regarding screws used on your shed. If you are after something safer to use to secure your shed walls, I propose looking at the rivet gun sets available at the store. By using a blind rivet, you are less likely to injure yourself when compared to running into a sharp pointy screw. Please make sure to bring one or two of your screws so that you can compare them to the blind rivets available at the store. Another option is to use a nut and bolt configuration, it may be a bit more tedious, but it is not as dangerous as a pointed screw. 

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their recommendations.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

[Dave-1]

Good Evening @victoriacalhoun 

I would go the route of the Rivets that @EricL has mentioned. And like him Id take a screw in with you to help get the right size rivet that will cover the hole and not pull through. Tin Sheds are pretty much like what you have shown. Some are better then others, some are like yours that come with a few problems...

That rusted extra bit on the top of the roof I would remove and replace. I wonder if it was protecting holes in the original roof? It would also explain the tek screws used if the shed was grabbed from elsewhere and then put together at your place. 

As to the floor? Roman ruins? Remove them all and choose a new base

Dave

[Nailbag]

Hi @victoriacalhoun 

From the last photo it appears there is an old corrugated roof fixed to the original shed roof. Now that its been removed, do you need to replace it over the other one still?

If it is needed then the screws would be of a safe length if they were installed only on the high ridges of both roof profiles. This is where they should be to allow water to freely drain and less chances of any leaks. If you're only going through a single skinned roof, which is what my preference would be, then use with metal roofing screws  that have rubber seals which are available in various lengths. Then use a roof and gutter sealant on all the old holes where screws have bean driven in to valleys. Screws will also be the more structurally fixing option in case of high winds. Bolts, nuts and washers using the sealant to waterproof would also work as @EricL suggested and would be a much stronger solution over rivets. 

For the walls I would definitely look at rivets as per @EricL suggestion, which I can already see some have been used on the corners.

Nailbag 

[victoriacalhoun]

Thanks Eric

Yes, a blind rivet sounds good. The shed is already trying to send me over the edge if it doesn't literally take my eyes out with the proud sheet metal screws (I've taken most out now). I do have a Kincrome heavy duty hand rivet gun, but I have a feeling I'm going to go through about 1000 rivets.

Do you have an opinion on the ones you can use as an adaptor on your drill? Or even is their a pneumatic one that you think is half decent? It may sounds like overkill or that I secretly do love the shed, but I know I have gutters and other things to do soon-ish too. And yes, 100% get your opinion on the nut bolt idea but yes, tedious!

Thank you.

Victoria

[victoriacalhoun]

NOT gutters on the shed BTW. 😂

[Nailbag]

I can highly recommend one of these Kango ones for your drill @victoriacalhoun. I've had one for a few years and its worked very well.

Nailbag

[EricL]

Hi @victoriacalhoun 

That is an excellent recommendation from @Nailbag. The Kango Blind/Pop Rivet Drill Adaptor is sure to make riveting much easier. All you need is a cordless drill to make the rivet adapter to work.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric