How to add doors into the space of current roller door?

[hanspet]

Hi,

I am trying to redesign our garage, which currently is all cluttered with crap we don't need. I want to turn it into a workshop of sorts, but would like to add some windows and light to the place. Are there any options to install some simple doors without having to remove the current rolling door. I just want to roll the door up and place the new doors. Is this possible? 

[jsmith11]

@hanspet I’ve seen online some canvas/ fly screen style garage opening ‘tarps’ that attach with magnets across garage door openings. Kind of like the side of a tent, with fly screen and magnetised door openings to keep bugs out, but light and fresh air in. It was a US based ad, and sorry I can’t point you in the right direction except google..

[TedBear]

Hi @hanspet , can you provide more information on the setting that you are trying work with, please? Is that rollerdoor attached to a brick building that is perhaps part of the house, or is it a stand-alone steel shed? 

If it is steel, then there is a possibility to build a timber frame that would sit inside and be clamped to the steel rails that run inside the shed.

On the assumption that this is the case...

I would be looking at running a top and bottom piece across the full (inside) width. Cut 5 uprights to run between those rails, at a length such that the top rail sits under the rollerdoor (inside, under the roll itself) when it is up. The 2 outer uprights sit against the shed wall rails where they can be firmly clamped into place by as many clamps as you can attach it with. (You'll need to have at least 2 steel side rails  as part of  the shed walls. One won't enable the frame to be held up safely.)

Two of the timber uprights will form the new smaller door frame and the last upright goes halfway across the remaining gap. You will also need a piece to form the top of the new door frame. (Buy a cheap door before starting, or don't fit a door if you are happy to just have an access hole in this removable wall.)  Place some noggins (short horizontal pieces) between the uprights to support the new wall cladding. I suggest cladding it with pearl corrugated polycarbonate sheets, as these are lightweight, easy to cut & handle, relatively cheap and will let light through the whole wall (less the door, if fitted) while still providing privacy & light-rain protection while you work.  When you are finished working, roll the door down to provide security against weather (the proposed removable wall won't be able to withstand strong winds) and theft.

It could be a good idea if possible to also add 2 angled props from this wall's top rail down each inner wall to the floor (also clamped to the shed's side rails) to help support the new wall, given that it isn't screwed into place as would normally be the case.

(If you do fit a door, make sure that it swings inward.) Normally you would not have the bottom rail run across the doorway opening, but since you can't bolt the bottom rail to the floor it will need to run across the whole width.).   Just another option (if it's a steel shed} to consider.

[hanspet]

Hi Nailbag,

Thanks for your reply.

What I am hoping to achieve is a set of windows that sit in front of the rolling door, such that, when you want to use the garage, you roll up the garage door and you have the windows to give you both privacy and light. I am not familiar with these proposed blinds, so Im not sure this is what I need. But the structure proposed by Jacob seems like a good way to go.

[hanspet]

Thanks for the tip. I will have to look around if they have this here.

[Dave-1]

Morning @hanspet 

I saw your question and immediately said "yep can be done" Only reason I say that is that I had what you describe for awhile before I removed teh roller door from the garage.

Garage converted into library room  is the project.

When you look at the frame in the doorway you may think it would block the roller door. Nope. It was a micture of planned and a fluke.

The planend part was installing the door and window within the the garage entrance opening. The Fluke was the door handles not protuding too far to block the roller door. The Frame is healt to the brickwork with concrete screws. 

For your effort, you could forgo the glass and just use bistro blinds or anything really. As you will have something to attach all the way around. 

I know you are renting but 3 or 6 concrete screws either side into the brickork (Less chance of bricks cracking and mind never did) and then you have your whole rectangular frame in place. From that point you can do any of the designs people have mentioned.

Dave

[hanspet]

Hi,

It is not steel, its part of the house, and as Im renting, I need to keep it simple, no drilling or actual construction. The idea proposed by Jacob is sound, I think, just build the frame and then place the windows. The only thing is that I would like not all to be windows, just windows on the upper bit, and the rest just something to cover the space. A door might be too complicated. So, will need to look into options.

Thanks for your suggestions.

[hanspet]

Hi Dave-1

Wow, thats very impressive work, but way more of what I can do. Anyway, I need to keep  the garage door, so I just want something simple to put in front, placed without drilling etc. The props based structure suggested by Jacob seems good and its just thinking how I can put actual windows inside the structure. What I want is just windows on the upper side and plain cover below, not windows all over. So, we can get both privacy and light/air.

Thanks for sharing.

[Dave-1]

Morning @hanspet 

No probs at all. You have timber around the existing edge so a frame can easily be installed and then you can go from there. A few screws and either side can be attached. Then you can do what you like with teh roller door still being able to be used in place if you wish.

Dave

[Nailbag]

Hi @hanspet 

after the latest round of updates and photos the project is not an easy one being it needs to be non-fixed. Regardless of the cladding being solid or bistro blinds etc, the inner outer frame needs to be a press-fit within the garage door opening. Then it will be subject to weathering such as shrinkage this loosing its strength of fitment. It could be strengthened using a Sika product, but this will leave a residue that you will need to make good when you move out. In my opinion, a firm fit timber frame with Sika 11FC will be your strongest removable wall without fixing directly in to the brickwork.

Nailag