Shaker-style kitchen reno with paint and plywood

[LizzieCro]

This ingenious kitchen makeover uses 3mm plywood glued to cabinet doors to create a Shaker-style trim.

• The project
• Before and after
• More inspiration for your kitchen

The project

I wanted to replace our high-gloss polyurethane kitchen with a Shaker style look but we couldn't afford to have it done by professionals.

To change the cabinet doors, drawer fronts and end panels, I ripped down some 3mm plywood into strips and attached it to the fronts to create the Shaker trim.

To allow for the additional thickness of the doors I simply adjusted the concealed hinges to move the doors ever so slightly away from the cabinet edge. I also created the illusion that there were more drawers by adding trim to the tops of doors, creating a faux drawer, and by "dividing" three large drawers into six.

As well as using trim to make the three big blue drawers look like six smaller ones, I also gave the cabinet door on the right a faux drawer at the top.

The cabinets were prepared with ESP primer and Zinsser B-I-N, then painted with a water-based enamel, using a 4mm nap microfibre roller.

I removed two of the cabinets over the stove and converted the remaining centre cabinet into a custom range hood cover, using ply, Pine and MDF. The front cover comes off that, so there is still storage there if needed.

I extended the ends of the breakfast bar, where it originally cantilevered, just to give it more substance. I added colonial skirting to the base of the kitchen, and brought the kickboards out by adding 18mm Pine to the fronts.

I replaced the sink with a ceramic butler's sink, cutting down the doors below it to accommodate it.

I had two big issues regarding the sink. The sink I wanted (and subsequently bought) was too deep for my existing cabinets. I chose to have the benchtops cut to a slightly deeper depth, but still the sink was a little too deep. When I cut down the cabinet doors below the sink, it left a substantial hole, which I filled with one layer of 18mm x 138mm half-splayed skirting. This still left a gap, so I added a second layer over that, of a smaller half-splayed skirting. It looks quite OK, and intentional.

The other issue was that the sink was a discontinued item when I bought it. I worried that if it cracked one day I would have to have my benchtops redone to accommodate a different sink. As an insurance, and because the sink was so cheap anyway, I bought two! It was certainly cheaper than replacing my benchtops should the sink crack!

I also added an architrave to the bay window and lined the plain plasterboard walls with 3mm ply planks. To fill in the cut-out area around the sink, I used half-splayed skirting, mitred at the corners.

Apart from researching and shopping for materials, the actual reno took me 293 hours, averaging six hours a day over 53 days.

Before and after

More inspiration for your kitchen

Experienced Bunnings Workshop contributor Adam_W has put together this handy guide to planning a kitchen renovation. You can also check out our Top 10 most popular kitchen projects.

If you just need a quick kitchen refresh, check out our collection of 10 kitchens transformed with paint. You can begin transforming your own kitchen with our step-by-step video guides to painting kitchen cabinets and painting a tiled splashback.

Let us know if you need a hand with your kitchen project. We're here to help.

[Garfield28]

You did an amazing job Lizzie. 

Can I please ask the paint is you used? I love how flat and even it looks, did you apply with a spray gun? Thinking we might go with shacker style doors myself now, I was originally thinking of going full gloss in a white but most of the shaker style doors I do see in kitchens they are usually a Matt finish which I am certainly growing to. 

Thanks 

[EricL]

Hello @Garfield28

Let me tag @LizzieCro to make them aware of your kind words and questions. This is one of my favourite kitchen door transformations. I believe that with enough preparation this kind of upgrade is definitely achievable. Not only does it give you a brand new look, but it gives you the opportunity to cosmetically re-arrange the look of your door layout without doing a great deal of woodwork.

Please make sure to post an update on your own kitchen door transformation. I'm sure our members would be keen to see what your doors will look like.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[LizzieCro]

@Garfield28 Hi,
Thanks very much for your kind words. Preparation is the key to making the paint adhere. You can use specialty laminate paints for the job, which, I'm told are very good. I can't comment on them as I've never used them. I have now painted 5 kitchens using this method, and have never had paint chip or scratch, despite some pretty heavy wear and tear:

1. Remove doors and drawers, hinges and handles.

2. Wash all surfaces to be painted using Sugar Soap and a Scotchbrite scourer type of pad. No need to rub hard, the scourer will lightly abrade the flat surface.

3. Wipe surfaces over with Easy Surface Preparation. Follow directions as per can. ESP helps adhere the primer and this, coupled with the light abrasion from your scourer, will enable everything to stick.

4. Prime with Zinsser BIN. I do two coats  of this if following up with white paint, and I sand very lightly after the first coat only. You could do one coat if you're using a dark coloured topcoat.

5. Top coat with Taubman's Water Based Enamel in a semi-gloss or gloss finish. I have also used Dulux Aquanamel, which is a great product, too. I have just come to prefer the Taubman's as it seems, to me, to go on a bit smoother.

Always make sure you do wait the required time between primer and gloss paint. If you paint too early, the primer will react with the gloss, and cause it to sieze and drag across the surface. 

You would never use a matt paint for cabinets, as it won't shed spills easily. I've used low sheen once, and once only, as it, too, held all the usual spills. In this kitchen (above) I used semi-gloss, but am considering painting over that with gloss. I didn't spray it as I would've had to mask up the whole room to do the carcasses and end panels, and I'm just not that keen! I always cut in using a good quality sash brush with slanted bristles. I use the Moanarch brand. They cost a bit more, but, taken care of, will last a very long time, and are much easier to use in tight corners. I then rolled using a 4mm nap microfibre roller. Truthfully, I'm not keen on the finish. The 4mm microfibre roller is recommended for gloss work, but I'd prefer to have brush strokes, rather than the slighly stippled effect I ended up with. A lot of people don't like brush strokes, but, given it's a Shaker style, for me, it'll probably will be OK. Having said that, I do renovate a lot of furniture and paint a lot, so I'm pretty good at getting a nice finish. If you can spray, I would suggest it.

[EricL]

Hi @LizzieCro

Thank you so much for that in-depth recommendation on your shaker-style door transformation. Let me tag @Garfield28 to make sure they see your suggestions. Looking at the photo, I thought it was a matt finish as well, it surprised me that it's actually a semi-gloss finish. I still think it's a fantastic-looking set of doors.

Again, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and experience.

Eric

[Garfield28]

Thanks heaps @EricL for tagging me and letting Lizziecro see my question. 

Thank you so much for the info @LizzieCro to look at in the pictures the paint seems nice and flat which is the type of look I'd be after as I too am not real fond of the stipple look left on any surface painted with a roller or brush, where possible I'll always use a spray gun but as you said sometimes not really possible. You did an amazing job and looking through your other projects you are very talented.

Thanks 

[sam1978]

Hi there. Just wondering whether you attach the ply directly to the existing cabinet and then prime?

[EricL]

Hello @sam1978

Thanks for joining the discussion. Let me tag @LizzieCro to make them aware of your question. In theory, both methods are actually applicable. If the laminate cover is still in good condition it is possible to glue directly over them. However, if parts of the laminate cover are beginning to deteriorate then it's best to remove them before you paint the doors. 

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

[LizzieCro]

@sam1978 

Hi Sam,

My laminate kitchen was only 9 years old, and in very good condition. All I did was Sugar Soap clean the laminate, using a Scotchbrite type of scourer, then, yes, I just glued and nailed the ply strips directly onto the laminate. After filling the nail  holes and any gaps where the ply joined the laminate, then sanding and wiping, I used ESP (Easy Surface Preparation) to create better adhesion between laminate and paint, then I primed. 

If your laminate is chipped or lifting off the MDF, I would choose to glue it back down and clamp it until dry, fill any areas which will cause concern, sand, then move onto adhering the ply strips.

[dave2023]

Hi @LizzieCro, just wondering what glue you used to attach the ply to the laminate/melamine front? I assume you glued directly to the laminate surface and then primed over the whole lot?

[LizzieCro]

@dave2023 

Hi Dave,

I just used Liquid Nails. It’s been a few years since I did this reno, but I assume I may also have put a few 15mm Brad nails in. I’m not sure though. It wouldn’t have been necessary really as I did clamp them overnight. Obviously I removed all the doors from the cabinets to work on them.

[KatieC]

Hi @dave2023,

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community! It is awesome you have jumped straight in with joining a discussion. Are you about to start a kitchen reno project of your own? We would love to see your project come to life, feel free to start a discussion to ask questions along the way. 

Katie

[LizzieCro]

@dave2023 

PS Yes I primed the entire outside of the door after attaching the ply.