Entry hallway wainscoting makeover

[SaadMalik]

Panel moulding used to create a feature on the plain walls of an entry hallway.

• The project
• Steps
• Tools and materials
• More wainscoting inspiration for your home

The project

Decided to decorate the entry hallway walls with panel moulding and I think the results came out pretty well. Wasn't sure if I would be able to do it but this forum has been very helpful for asking questions every time I got stuck.

I think it came out very well and has truly transformed the space. Hopefully my effort inspire other people to take up similar projects as well.

Steps

Step 1

Took the measurements of the walls and draw a rough plan on paper.

Step 2

Marked out the outlines on the walls to get an idea on how it looks. Really recommend Stanley 1200mm High Impact ABS resin spirit level from Bunnings.

Locate the studs and use a tape or similar to mark out the location. 

Cut the Pine mould to size. I used the Craftright Mitre Box to cut the Pine.

Stick the mould on the wall along the pencil lining. I used Selleys Fast Grab Liquid Nails and nailed them into the studs using a Ryobi Brad nailer. The vertical panels I only used glue as they did not line up with the studs.

Fill the holes with wood filler.

Step 3

I ended up with joints between the moulds so used Timbermate wood filler. A tip would be to use this as little as possible. I was quite generous initially and it became a time consuming task to sand it all down.

For the chair rail install I would really recommend using a laser level to get your line. I used 66 x 11mm 5.4m Moulding White Pine FJ Primed Colonial SA1. Double check the chair rail height from the top of skirting is consistent all the way through. Use the Stanley spirit level as it also has a ruler. This is to make sure you get it a perfect horizontal on the chair rail.

Step 4

Tape around the Pine to prime it. Remove the tape when the primer is dry. 

Tools and materials

Materials used in the project:

• White pine moulding 5.4m 66 x 11mm
• Panel mould clear pine 2.4m 30 x 12mm
• Strong adhesive
• Multipurpose gap filler
• Painter’s masking tape
• White wood filler.

Tools used in the project:

• Cordless nail gun
• Paint brush
• Caulking gun
• Mitre box and saw set
• Precision cut handsaw
• Spirit level.

More wainscoting inspiration for your home

Bunnings Workshop community member x shared this wainscoting project for their living room using Pine moulding and a feature paint.

Experienced renovators homeinmelbourne created a feature of a bare bedroom wall using MDF in their bedroom wainscoat feature wall project. 

Get more ideas from our collection of 5 feature walls with wainscoting by clever and creative Bunnings Workshop community members. 

[Sugar]

Hi @SaadMalik  @MitchellMc

Today I have bought same stuff like yours and doing exactly same. I like this. 

Question is : 

Do you think using Liquid Nail and using hammer,we can get away with the Cordless Nail Gun, just because they are little pricey ?

Just trying to justify the purchase  of Cordless Nail Gun for other project. 

[MitchellMc]

You could use Liquid Nails and nail the trim to the wall with a hammer @Sugar. However, we do hire nail guns. I'd recommend you hire one, as I recently put trim work on, and it was exponentially faster using the nail gun than by hand. In fact, I gave up doing it by hand as all my nails were bending when driving them into the hardwood studs. It took me over an hour to install one piece of trim by hand with a hammer, but with the nail gun, I had seven pieces installed within 45 minutes.

Mitchell

[Sugar]

Thanks @MitchellMc 

I can see these are affordable at the moment 

Where can we else use nailgun so that we make most out of .? I am sure I can use to other projects as well beside project like above ?

[MitchellMc]

Brad nail guns like those you've pictured are incredibly versatile tools @Sugar. They excel in various applications, including trim work, cabinet making, and craft projects. You can also use them for installing skirting boards, mouldings, and chair rails, building picture frames, and even for light furniture assembly. They’re perfect for delicate tasks where a larger nail gun would be overkill, providing a secure hold without splitting the wood.

I find that I use mine most for quickly assembling joints before installing more substantial fixings.

Mitchell

[SaadMalik]

I agree with @MitchellMc that it is definitely quicker with the nail gun. I was a bit unsure how to use because it was my first DIY project but you get a hang of it very quickly. I used the Ryobi brad nailer exactly like in the picture above. You can use it for all sorts of DIY projects. I am planning to install VJ panel in my lounge this month and the nail gun will come very handy.

Do share the photos of how you go. I am sure it will turn out well!

[Sugar]

@MitchellMc 

Do this vertical (top) and bottom and the vertical timber have to go to stud ?

Especially, the vertical timber are light weight.

Shouldn't the nails be able to hold it ?

[Sugar]

@SaadMalik @MitchellMc 

[MitchellMc]

If they align with the studs, you can shoot some nails into them, @Sugar. Otherwise, the glue should be sufficient. You can also shoot nails through the trim into the plasterboard to hold the trim in position until the glue dries.

Mitchell

[Sugar]

@MitchellMc  could you please assist me here

I have already started and the outcome is looking great. Just a snippet is here.

 

very excited to see that final outcome.

and I also bought proper tool, nail gun and mitre table saw, helping alot

there is a wall with 45 degree. I am finding hard to manoeuvre the trim around that area. The 45degree which would normally would work with perpendicular walls is not helping. 

 

 

when I see the bottom skirting board, it has been perfectly joined, not sure how 

 any suggestions here please

[JacobZ]

Hi @Sugar,

Your wainscoting looks to be coming along nicely, congratulations on the progress so far.

If the angle of the wall is 45 degrees, you will be able to cut a mitre like how you would with a 90-degree bend, you would simply need to change the angle of the cut to 22.5 degrees.

If the angle is not perfectly 45 degrees, you can use a Craftright 300mm Digital Angle Finder to find the angle and then halve that angle to find your cut angle. For example, if it is 52 degrees, your cut angle would be 26 degrees.

Let me know if you have any further questions, I'd be happy to assist.

Jacob

[Sugar]

@JacobZ  thank you. 

I purchased this for this project and upcoming other projects.

Could you please tell me what is the difference in moving the handle left and right for 45 degree and moving the base left and right for 45 degree ? Where should be used them ? what's the purpose of having two sets of 45 degree arrangement ?

I will certainly try with 22.5 degree and I was about to ask what if more than 45 degree. you answered me that too. 

I was thinking this overnight as well and I think final resort is manual cut, but only final resort. 

Thanks. It might take my Ekka holiday to finish :😁

[Sugar]

@JacobZ @MitchellMc  I wanted to put this in previous post

[JacobZ]

Hi @Sugar,

There is no real difference in the direction of rotation, the functionality remains the same, it is just sometimes easier to rotate the saw as opposed to lifting and rotating the material that's being cut. Having the option to rotate the base and the handle either clockwise or anticlockwise can be easier than lifting and rotating a heavy piece of timber so it is a great functionality to have.

When cutting on a mitre saw, the safest way to make cuts is to have the material sitting flat on its widest face. This gives you the least potential for instability of the workpiece while cutting. Having both the base of the saw and the handle able to rotate, allows the greatest number of cuts to be made in the safest way possible.

You'll see in the above photo I have circled 22.5-degrees on the base of the saw and added a line at the approximate location on the handle of the saw. 

In your case, laying the trim flat on the saw and rotating the handle to 22.5-degrees will be the way to go. This will create a mitre cut that should meet nicely around a 45-degree angle.

You might find some benefit in having a look through both How To Install Skirting Boards and How To Install Architraves as they give visual examples of cuts that will likely help your understanding.

Let me know what you think and if you have any further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Jacob

[Sugar]

Thanks @JacobZ  Great help. I will see how I go. I will have separate post about it once it goes well.