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The laundry project - ongoing
Top cabinets complete
We recently decided to upgrade our laundry. Originally we wanted to knock it down and move it into another section of our home but the alternative of upgrading the space is more feasable at the moment.
This project is likely to take a few months due to other commitments but here is some progress so far.
Before.
More to come...
Hi @rubytuesday1953 and @EricL
Yes, I used the Flatpax 600mm and 2 of the 300mm for exactly that reason - price point.
They are good but the finish isn't as refined as I'd like (slight off white) but given it's the laundry I wasn't too fussed and overall they look great. In terms of build, I didn't have any issues but they don't have soft closing hinges (bang!) so keep that in mind.
Feel free to ask anything else 🤠 all the best!
Thanks again @diy_hausdesigns
I think I might go for the Flatpax too. (saving approx $300 is very appealing)
I wonder if I can add soft closing hinges.
Did you put an end piece between the wall and the cupboard at both ends?
I was thinking it would make the door open better on the wall side
It's hard to tell in the pictures
Rob @rubytuesday1953
Hello Rob (@rubytuesday1953)
I suggest trying the Kaboodle Soft Close Door Hinge - 1 Pair. I recommend speaking to the In-Store Kitchen Expert at your store. They can take one of the Flatpax laundry doors off and try the kaboodle hinges in store. Because Flatpax is the starter set for Kaboodle, I suspect that the hinge cutouts should be similar.
If you need more information please let us know.
Eric
I think @EricL has a good idea. When I updated my kitchen I swapped out all the old non soft close door hinges and drawers rails for the hafele ones which are terrific too.
I don't have end panels on mine. I really wanted a clean look. I designed the timber shelving in the middle (1200mm length) to push the white cabinets on either end ( 300mm + 600mm left and 300mm right) right to the corners. Maximising the 2400mm space completely ! Here are some photos.
300mm + 600mm cabinets - Attached to the back and side wall.
300mm - Attached to the back wall only.
So @diy_hausdesigns sorry to keep bugging you, but did you leave a small space at the sides of the cupboards closer to the walls to allow the doors to open properly?
It looks like it in the pictures. If so, how much space did you leave
Rob @rubytuesday1953
No worries @rubytuesday1953
The hinges allow for the doors to open with no need for a gap between the wall and cabinet so you are fine there. Pretty cool how hinges work ha!
The right cabinet has a small unintential gap but my photos that make it look worse than what it is.
Great, thanks for being so helpful @diy_hausdesigns
Got the wood for the shelves cut today at Bunnings. Can't wait to get started. Hope they come out as good as yours
Rob @rubytuesday1953
Hey @diy_hausdesigns I started my shelves on Saturday and was nearly finished yesterday when I suddenly had a thought (really gave me a headache too LOL)
In the drawing you sent me with all your measurement you showed the outside depth as 295cm. Does that include the pieces added across the back or are they separate?
If they're include in the 295cm then I stuffed up, because I didn't think to allow for that. The outside depth would then be 311cm
I want the shelves to be a little less in depth than the cupboard (the depth of the cupboard including the door comes to 317cm)
HELP!!! Did I stuff up?
Rob @rubytuesday1953
Hello @rubytuesday1953
Let me tag @diy_hausdesigns so that they are made aware of your question. Looking at the pictures of the original post if the timber battens he placed on the wall are 90 x 35 plus the depth of the cabinet 295mm you would have a total of 330mm. I suppose you could use a thinner batten to anchor the cabinets to the wall or place the batten at the top and anchor from above.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
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