Preparing a shower floor for a shower base

[Laurens]

There was a waterleak in the upstairs shower... The 2 layers of tiles have been taken up and the water damage traced and taken out.

The repaired section of the floor is slightly lower than the original floor so I want to know how to prepare the floor (so it is ready) to add a custom built base (yet to be ordered)

I am aware that waterproofing is essential and am adding timber to all the sides to help form "the tub"

Next after the timber sides will be cement sheet (which will be waterproofed)

Is it important to get the floor completely level or will the cement slurry provide the necessary base (after waterproofing?

[redracer01]

Hello @Laurens 

Now that you've decided to go in this direction I suggest having a look at the Mondella shower base tile tray. It has 4 lips! However it will now depend on your available space. Please have a look and see if it will fit. Otherwise you may have to source your tile tray from an independent shop that does custom sizes. Please keep us updated so that members with possibly the same situation can see what you've done to solve it. 

Cheers 

Red 

 

[Laurens]

The size of the area where the new base has to go is 955mm X 1055mm. That leaves no room for expansion, if indeed I need to?

The reason I initially set my sights on a manufactured base with a lip was simply to avoid the tiling of the base but after watching multiple videos and getting advice on shower pan manufacturers it may be a case of having to use the compressed cement sheet base, waterproofing and tiling over a screed... 

The project started out as being reasonably well planned but because the base area is a weird size and the shower drain pipe had already been reduced by previous modifications to 44mm it is now a step by step project... After taking the floor out I saw that the shower drain did not have an water trap so that is now to be included as well, the modification will allow me to move the drain closer to the centre of the shower base.

Getting hold of the 100mm puddle flange is the next challenge

[Laurens]

Received this in an email today... It expands my options ..

I will now do some more preparation on the walls of the area where the base will be dropped in and then come and talk to Bunnings about the base size I need

"Yes we are able to supply a custom tile-over shower tray to those measurements. Please contact your nearest Bunnings Warehouse for pricing, their fine line number is 0177604 (description of this item number is 'custom up to 1000 x 1500')

For all custom products, we allow approx 2-3 weeks from ordering for delivery to the Bunnings store. If you wish to go ahead with an order, the order form attached to this email will need to be completed and emailed to us from the store" 

[MitchellMc]

It's great to hear that we can assist in ordering your custom tile tray with lips on three sides @Laurens. Please let us know if you need any assistance with the process or when your next questions arise. We're here to help.

Mitchell

[Laurens]

4 X sides

[MitchellMc]

I apologise, @Laurens. I should have been more specific. I was just pointing out that the Wet Area Solutions Custom Up To 1000 x 1500mm Shower Tile-Over Tray is "Supplied with pre-folded flashing on 3 sides as pictured to suit 6mm wall board". You had previously let us know you were after four sides, so I just wanted to make sure you knew that this has only three sides.

Mitchell

[Laurens]

The Wet Area Solutions Base turned out to be exorbitantly expensive so I have gone back to basics.

I now have the yellow tongue flooring in place and am about to add the cement sheeting to the walls before putting down the screed.

What product do you sell that I can use to waterproof the yellow tongue and the cement sheeting walls?

[EricL]

Hello @Laurens,

It's good to know you've made progress with your renovations. Because you mentioned you are using cement sheeting and screed on the yellow tongue, I suggest using Dunlop Express Shower Waterproofing Kit. It is a complete kit and makes it convenient to use. On that note please don't forget to place your fall on the screed so that you get good water drainage. Please note before purchasing to make sure the product will cover the necessary area of your shower build.

We look forward to seeing photos or updates you can provide with the progress of your shower remodeling.

Eric

[Laurens]

Is there a smaller version, that kit is far too big for my 1m X 1 m base?

[Adam_W · Accepted solution]

Hi @Laurens 
Some input for what it's worth...
We are doing a rolling renovation at our place and waterproofing various spaces - bathrooms, powder room, laundry - is part of the process.
Waterproofing is like a layer-cake & everything has to be done right as the overall integrity comes from both the layers and how they work together.
Following is the process for a regular tiled floor.

First is the primary substrate - the actual floor. You can use regular 'yellow tongue' particle board or there is a water resistant version if you want the extra security. On top of this you then add a layer of tile underlay sheets. These can be nailed down. The idea is to have these tile underlay sheets lapping over joins of the primary substrate as this then increases the overall stability of the floor, reducing or eliminating joint movement which in-turn reduces likelihood of tile joins cracking.

The other option, which has the advantage of ultimately keeping the floor level a little lower, is to use a suitable fibre-cement flooring sheet.

Just make sure it's suitable for wet areas & tiling over. Bear in mind that these FC sheets need to be screwed, not nailed down.
All walls in the shower recess should then be clad with Villaboard-type FC sheeting.
Once wall & floor panels are installed then you need to prep-coat for waterproofing to make sure the membrane binds to the surface. Easy enough to brush on just make sure that your thoroughly sweep & then vacuum the area first. I like to just use a damp mop & them vacuum as I've found the mop captures dust rather than sending it airborne to just settle again. Make sure the area is dry before apply prep-coat.
Next comes the actual waterproofing membrane itself, select a bucket size to suit your job. I've found their coverage rates to be pretty accurate. This is easy to brush on but will require at least 2 coats. I always go for 3.
Don't rush the drying time on any these products. They set pretty quickly but if you need to speed it up just run a fan in the area.
As you apply the first coat you also need to bed joint bands into floor and wall edges, including around corners, and reinforcing fabric on all wall joins.
Don't do walls and floors separately as you want to create a contiguous membrane. So start at the highest point of your walls and then work down backing out towards the doorway.

I'll just add that I've been using the Gripset Betta range as it is very low-fume, non-toxic & is water-based, so easy clean up.
Once this is all set you are ready for tiling & this 'traditional' technique will give you a 100% waterproof seal that's good for decades if done correctly.
It also means you can create the shower stall size to suit the available space rather than being constrained by base sizes.

I am not overly familiar with the type of bases/trays you are talking about but I must admit I'd be concerned about that joint between wall boards and base lip being a potential leak point. Not quite sure how that works.
If the villaboard sheets are going over the lip is the base rebated into the wall or are the sheets packed out?