How to replace bottom plate of stud wall?

[joshy1]

Hi. I have water damage in the walls of my toilet room. The leak has been addressed. But it has caused damage to the bottom plate and bottom of the studs. I need to replace the bottom plate and bottom half of the studs. The wall in question is a non load bearing wall. There is also a load bearing wall that was also damaged but i will hire a tradesman to fix that small section. I can not afford to pay a tradesman to do the whole thing which i why i need to tackle it myself. I have checked with local council and have discovered I can do the repairs myself without a permit.

house is a brick veneer build in the early 90's on the Gold Coast.

I need to know whats the best way to remove the bottom plate ?

I also note that the bottom plate does not seem to be bolted to the concrete slab below.

toilet room in questionThe wall that i would like to repair in question

[EricL]

Hello @joshy1 

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us, and thanks for sharing your question about repairing your stud wall.

On the condition that you've had your wall assessed by a registered builder and that they have confirmed that it is not a load bearing wall, I propose rebuilding the entire stud wall. But if it has not been inspected by a builder, I propose holding off on the demolition and having it properly assessed first.

Looking at the photos you've posted, it appears that the bottom part of the studs have been damaged by water as well. I don't recommend recycling any of the timber studs. If the bottom plate is glued down, I suggest using a Craftright 380mm Wrecking Bar to lift it off the floor.

Before you begin any demolition works, I highly recommend taking accurate measurements of the existing stud wall along with any channel cuts made into them. This will save you time and make it easier to recreate the stud wall.  

Let me call on our experienced members @Nailbag and @Dave-1 for their recommendations.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

[joshy1]

"I propose rebuilding the entire stud wall"

thats not really on the cards. The wall on the other side is a bathroom wall. That would then cascade to the entire bathroom to be stripped out which is not in the budget.

Two walls in another room with the same damage were repaired by a registered builder and the effected studs were cut approx 600mm up from the bottom plate. the stud was then sistered with another stud going from the bottom plate up to about 1500mm. (not the full height of the wall)

I would like to recreate the same effect and wanted to know the best way to begin by removing the bottom plate.

good call on the wrecking bar. ill pic one up tomorrow

[Nailbag]

Hi @joshy1 I do agree with @EricL that if it's possible to get the load bearing wall done first as it may impact how you start on your sections of work. Plus you could take the opportunity for some free advice while the builder is there?

The bottom plates may have at least 1-2 concrete nails through them. But once the plates and studs are cut you can pry them up pretty easily with your new wrecking-bar. Though I would recommend going for a longer one for a few extra $ as the extra leverage will make the job easier. There is also a chance being short length walls you don't find any nails at all.

If you have a reciprocating saw, then these flush cut blades will cut the plates flush to the concrete. Otherwise a short sharp hand saw will work just as well. Keep the saw as horizontal throughout eh cut as possible to avoid hitting the concrete. Then go nice and slow just as your break through so not to damage the teeth.

Regards Nailbag

[EricL]

Hi @joshy1 

That's excellent advice coming from @Nailbag. It's definitely worth getting a larger wrecking bar, my only recommendation is to make sure it has a sharp edge that will bite into the timber when you lever the bottom plate up. Plus, it's a fantastic idea to get the builder in to do the load bearing wall first and getting some free advice.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[Dave-1]

Evening @joshy1 

Now that is a decent sized job. I totally agree with @EricL suggestions about redoing the wall. One reason is if water has damaged the studs up halfway then there is a fair chance there is water/moisture in that plaster. It may be more expensive in one way but doing the overlapping and then having to come back to the plaster issues may be a false econommy.

How many walls do you have that sistering fix in? I "know" in my mind that its a way to repair and at the same time I dont 100% trust it. 😕

The pry bar and a saber saw would be your best friend in removing the base plate. Id definenty get the wall assesed by a builder for structual support . Id also support the top with agriprops while you are working in the area. Last bit I would suggest and I am not sure if its the wisest but id replace half the baseboard, do the sistering you suggest and then once done do the other half of the wall.

Dave

[joshy1]

"that if it's possible to get the load bearing wall done first as it may impact how you start on your sections of work"

that sounds like a good idea. Ill get someone to fix the small load bearing wall. and then try and tackle the other wall myself.

Im still confused tho. How do you remove the bottom plate? do you cut it into little pieces under one stud at a time and put a small block under each stud ?

whats the actual process to remove the bottom plate with the wall still standing ?

[joshy1]

"I totally agree with @EricL suggestions about redoing the wall"

I simply can not do that at all, Its the bathroom wall. It would break any water proofing and mean a full strip out of all walls, bathtub you name it. It will be so far out of my budget its simply not a possibility. 

[Dave-1]

Morning @joshy1 

The waterproofing has failed already, with the walls being removed the area will have to be redone to get the waterproofing certificate signed off.  When you remove that bottom plate any residual waterproofing between the floor and the timber will go as well. Tho as the timber has rotted so its already gone. 

I know all about trying to budget and spending what money you have several times over 😕 Bathrooms are a pain but worth doing it right to whatever level you can afford. Getting the walls sorted, the floor sorted, the whole area waterproofed so you arnt back in the same problem in 6 months plus being able use the bathroom even in a minimal way is a hard path. 

Dave

[MitchellMc]

@Dave-1 

This appears to be a toilet, and if the leak has been resolved, I can only assume the leak was not due to failed waterproofing in the next room.

Mitchell