How to give this Besser Block bathroom a facelift?

[altuns]

I would really like to do a cosmetic Reno on this downstairs shower and toilet but I am stumped with the exposed plumbing and waterproofing etc. could I please have some advice on what my options are and professionals that I need to engage vs what I can do myself?  I will have a crack at tiling but I think there might be an easier option like wet wall panels? Do plumbers do waterproofing or means engaging another trade? This is a temporary space to make it useable and more pleasant until we do a larger Reno in a few years. Thanks so much for ideas and advice.

 

 

[KatieC]

Hi @altuns,

First, let me welcome you to the Bunnings Workshop community! It is awesome you have joined us and have asked for some inspiration and advice on renovating your bathroom and when to call in the pros. Our resident DIY expert @EricL will be online later this afternoon, but let me tag members @RenoRach1, @homeinmelbourne, and @Darren as they have great experience in bathroom renos and may be able to give their suggestions. In the meantime, check out our Top 10 most popular bathroom projects for some inspiration. 

We would love to see your bathroom transform, please keep us updated with photos. 

Katie

[Jewelleryrescue · Accepted solution]

Hi @altuns 

Tiling is not to hard the trick is to start of with a straight edge I lay a angle iron(or aluminium) 4-5mm  on the floor to sit the first row of wall tiles on.

  Then for  the pro look  DTA lippage spacers clips and gun. Simply put these hold the tile edges level together while the glue sets a must to use for a  first timer if you want a decent finish especially up a wall.  The DTA lippage bits you need below (several systems this is good one and works)

(The  yellow tee shape goes behind the backs of the tiles pulling them level the red bit is the locking clamp sitting on top of the two or 4 tiles as you get better one of these clamps goes at each tile corner holding all 4 tiles level.  The gun simply tightens the clamp but not over tight as they designed to snap off once the glue is dried.   Bunnings stock em.    Watch  youtubes   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HhbtzwCK83U

PS in video they are white spacers so they all the same

DTA Yellow Lippage Spacer - 100 Pack  I/N: 6650254  $21.96  DTA yellow spacer 

Reusble  DTA Red Lippage Caps - 100 Pack I/N: 6650253 $28.72  Red Lippage Caps/ clamps 

DTA Lippage Leveling Gun  I/N: 6650255  $44.18   DTA lippage leveling gun 

Tile cutter use and angle grinder with masinary abrasive cutting disc  or  standard score and snap rig.

That space you have there is a lovly blank canvas and will look great with your favourite new tiles. I would pick a  lighter shade to maximise light in those spaces.

Well that space should allready be waterproofed as such as it is a working shower if there are no water issues that need fixing then no dramas

The walls  with the copper pipes need timber rails mounted to the wall.  On top of that goes a cement like sheeting (villa board 6mm min)  layer to hide the pipes behind it with holes for the taps.  A false wall.

I would recommend doing some waterproofing webbing where the sheets join and meets the floor to stop any water pooling between the walls DIY

Here you can put acrylic prefab sheet but they can be pricy eg bunnings

Wall Art 2400 x 1200 x 3mm Carrara Ice Wet Area Wall / Shower Panel  I/N: 6660416 $218

https://www.bunnings.com.au/wall-art-2400-x-1200-x-3mm-carrara-ice-wet-area-wall-shower-panel_p66604...

Have a crack at tiling  as  shown  above it will save you $  once you love tiling you have the skils to do many similar things. WE all learnt some where  some time.

Do you notice the pipe bends away from the top of the wall  ideally they need to be attached flat to the wall if you wanted tiles all the way up.  On the Loo on the left you have one tap mounted  on the wall and another pipe and tap sitting out from the wall if that was to be tiled too ideally pin them back onto the walls.  The pipes are all most  running up in the wall corners so you maybe able to tile the  wall directly leaving a gap for the pipe at the end then a second layer 1/4 tile can be layed over the  pipe and  on to the new tiles on the corner of the wall.  Saving you putting in two extra false walls and losing space in there too.  While your at it  lift  that plumbing up above the window so you can put a roof in make a timber frame use the villaboard is fine.

OR  Painting

An  easier make over is a good  all in one under coat for acrylic paints on concrete and the pipes then pick a  stricking bold acryic color (aqua blue/green?) for one wall with the shower pipes and the rest white. You will need 2 or 3 undercoats for a besser wall with 10mm nap fluffy roller.

Rather than tile the floor you can epoxy floor it and it looks great 

Dy-Mark 8L Titanium Grey Epoxy Coat Garage Floor Kit  I/N: 0222020  $260

dy-mark-8l-titanium-grey-epoxy-coat- 

Use a few bags of self leveling cement  on floor first to give you a dead  flat canvas to work on.

well  i hope this helps enjoy your  reno.

[altuns]

Thank you this is great advice, unfortunately the walls have not been waterproofed so I am guessing that would be needed prior to any further application of tiles or flooring.

[Jewelleryrescue]

Hi @altuns I am  Glad to be of assistance to your project

Plumbing

Some of that Plumbing  may flex out of the way against the wall but if is resisting being reshaped  the pipe can be damaged and  need fixing. So once you  know you want  Ie  high walls looks good in that space and or add  a roof and the plumbing needs to moved possibly , if you cant move it  then call in a plumber on the safe side.

DIY   All the rest as  you wish to do  we all make mistakes try planning  each stage ahead  helps.

But in the  loo in the corners over the pipes there are no  rules to say you cant put a villa board 45 degree fillet 120mm in the  corners its  just extra tile  cutting. to cover piping.

Villaboard Spacing 

Add timber rails to the wall as to  the best thickness match the tap thread coming out of the wall so a nice new shower tap set combo can  be added.  Some sets  quite well priced at Bunnings.  Whats the  point of doing this if the final touches arnt done . I wont knock you if you dont just giving encouragement. Buy the tape set first as to guage how it goes together and what will  look good. keep the taps  packet  if you need a refubd on a  mind change I happens to me occasionally.

Water proofing

You can  apply this directly  to concrete walls and flooring @EricL and @MitchellMc  might have options as there is a large range  for this stuff.

This is designed  under tiles.   If you go that option and you only need to do the final  villaboard and cement floors  there are minimal dimentions  around showers walls and a skirting egde etc you would need to look up  you dont need to seal high up on  walls etc only shower area.   If you have the stuff left over after 2  coats do the whole lot.    I am un sure if it is  directly paintable if thats your direction you choose I can t see why not  If you wanted to seal then  paint.  How  ever the destructions  talking about using only water based finishing coats so is that acrylic undercoat paints?  need to check that if you are  painting over it.

DRY FLOOR ETC

Use  waterproofing joints and corners especially sheets transitioning between wall and floor

Bastion 100mm x 10m Bond Breaker Waterproofing Joint Band I/N: 0355672 $25

https://www.bunnings.com.au/bastion-100mm-x-10m-bond-breaker-waterproofing-joint-band_p0355672

General purpose membrain over the top of cement and villaboards

Bastion 4L Under Tile Membrane   I/N: 0363840 $51.30

https://www.bunnings.com.au/bastion-4l-under-tile-membrane_p0363840

Tiling A corner joiner  will be useful around those bulging concrete pillars making a smooth edge so you  tilling wont need to be mm perfect first time.

Use 6mm  to 10mm notched trowel for most tiles.  

Wall Art 2400mm Linear Internal Corner Joiner - Carrara / Monsoon  I/N: 6660431  $4.90

https://www.bunnings.com.au/wall-art-2400mm-linear-internal-corner-joiner-carrara-monsoon_p6660431

[EricL]

Hello @altuns

It's great that you've received excellent advice from @Jewelleryrescue. Just to add to the suggestions made, I recommend having a look at tiling the wall and having your copper pipes tidied up with proper copper elbows and copper saddles. This will give it a nice uniform and traditional retro finish.

The shower area will still have to be waterproofed but you won't have to frame the bathroom anymore as you and tile directly on top of the waterproofing. The same tidy-up can be applied to your toilet copper pipe giving it a uniform finish and the back of it can then be tiled to give it a nice finish. The best part of this is should any repairs need to be done the plumbing is out in the open and there will be no need to tear down walls to get to them. 

Please have a look at the sketches below and tell me what you think.

Eric

[altuns]

Thank you all good guidance for consideration. Really appreciate the sketches, I will get that costed by a plumber. Does the plumber give a waterproofing certificate? I’ve heard that when you sell your property the waterproofing has to be verified? Thanks 

[altuns]

Thank you for this additional information. I think I will waterproof and then tile. You’ve given me great instructions and tips thank you.

[RenoRach1]

Hi @altuns, 

I understand your dilemma with wanting a decent and workable, albeit temporary and budget-conscious, solution to your bathroom.  I like @EricL's sketches of the copper piping - the retro feel would be striking. In your position, to save on costs for your future, BIG reno, I'd do a mixture of feature-tiling and rendering the bricks.

I'm in the middle of working on a large entertainment space on the ground level of my Queenslander that includes besser bricks. Even though I'm fortunate not to have issues with water, I still did a course of water-proofing on the besser bricks, using Dunlop Pro Rapid Waterproof Membrane.

I then rendered it with Dulux 10L Medium Texture Exterior Paint and painted over that with Dulux Low Sheen Wash&Wear Interior Paint in Grey Nomad.  I'm really happy with the outcome - it's exactly what I envisaged and it's only cost me a couple of hundred dollars and my time and energy.

It would easy for you to do a few walls like this and then tile a couple of walls in a class white subway tile such as Duratile 30 x 60cm White Gloss Ceramic Wall Tile or Johnson Tiles 200 x 100mm White Ceramic Wall Tile. These tiles are very forgiving and useful if you haven't tiled before. I've used similar ones for my first forays into tiling.

As @Jewelleryrescue , you could epoxy the floor - that's what I did! Because my area is a media / bar area and I'm aiming for a dark, moody 1920s look (the area will be decorated like a speakeasy), I went for the black colour (Dy-Mark 8L Onyx Black Epoxy Coat Garage Floor Kit) but you could run with a lighter colour, as @Jewelleryrescue suggests.  I'm only halfway through, so a post on this reno is yet to come on my project, but it's a time and cost-effective path to take. That way, you can save your reno budget for your future larger, long-term project.

With the waterproofing, the rendering paint and the epoxy kit, if you can paint with a brush and roller, you can use these products for an aesthetically-successful outcome.

All the best with your work!

[altuns]

Thank you love these suggestions really helps and appreciate the coatings. Would love to see your finished efforts when you are ready to share.