How to cut Jarrah floorboards close to stud wall?

[Neen]

 

 

 

Hi all, just need to pick some brains.

I am converting a spare bedroom into a bathroom.

I’ve gutted all the old plasterboard  out and now need to cut out and remove jarrah floor boards to be able to replace with cement sheeting.
What do I use to cut the jarrah floor boards as close as possible to the stud walls 
One side aprox 2.4 cut and the other aprox 1.7 cut.
If  I use a circular saw then the closest I can get to the stud wall is  roughly 25mm which leaves too much flooring remaining.  A multi tool will take me till Christmas to cut.
Any advice would be appreciated.

Neen 

 

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[EricL]

Hello @Neen 

Thanks for sharing your question about cutting your jarrah floorboards. Your analysis on which tool you can use to cut your floorboards is spot on. I understand that it feels like using the multitool will take forever, but the key to a quick cut is the type of blade you're using. 

If you are using the default blade set that came with your multitool, it will take a long time to finish the job. I suggest having a look at the Diablo 65 x 40mm Clean Wood STARLOCK Multi Tool Plunge Cutting Blade. Its a Japanese designed cutting blade and is made to go through wood clean and fast. A specialty blade will allow you to go through single timber panels in a few moments.

Let me call on our experienced members @JoeAzza, @Dave-1 and @TedBear for their recommendations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[Neen]

Thank you so much Eric. You're a gem. 

I will definitely try the Diablo blade. 

Sound like that’s my solution. 

I'll wait to hear from  @JoeAzza, @Dave-1 and @TedBear for their recommendations also.

Many thanks

Neen

[MitchellMc]

Hi @Neen,

Another option would be a reciprocating saw, as it will make short work of cutting the boards. You'll find budget-friendly versions like the XU1 710W Reciprocating Saw to be more than sufficient for your project. I do recommend you pick up an extension after-market blade for it. Due to the length of the blade, before cutting, you'll need to determine where the floor joists are and if any electrical cables are running near the cut zone. If in doubt, please enlist the services of a professional for your project.

You'll find that when you get to a wall stud, it will impede your progress but if you offset the saw from the stud and approach the cut for the boards at any angle, you'll be able to make it work.

Remember your PPE, including safety glasses, a face mask and gloves.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

[Dave-1]

Morning @Neen 

If you have acess to under the house you could potetiall drill a hole next to the stud wall in a couple of placesthen use a circular saw to run in a straight line? Or sam idea with a couple of holes drilled and then recipricating saw as @MitchellMc suggests (tho must admit I have not used a recipricating saw or a multi tool before )

You could go for a bit of both, use your multi-tool to cut the first floorboards width so you can get the recoipricating saw in or go old school and use a handsaw. It would be quicker then a multitool surely? Just be careful you dont go through joists underneath the floor Now that would be a story!

Dave

[Neen]

Thank you for your advice about drilling holes then using a reciprocating saw. I have one so that's handy. I'll naught consider having a go with that. 

Thank you, Dave for your suggestion , much appreciated.

Mmm that would be a problem if I cut through the joists wouldn't it lol 

Neen 

Many thanks

Neen

[Neen]

Hi Mitchell 

Thank you for your suggestion of reciprocating saw. 

I have a large Hilti reciprocating saw but it’s very heavy so will check out the XU1 you recommended, 2.5kg seems a lot lighter to me .

Neen 

[TedBear]

Hi @Neen, it looks like you've got a plan now. I'd add that a combination of reciprocating saw - for between joists and a multi tool for over the joists would be great, if you have access to both.

If using a multi-tool keep in mind that the teeth don't clear themselves of sawdust as a circular or hand saw does, so you need to keep lifting or tilting the blade to let the dust out. Otherwise they just clog up and get hot.