How to build a vacuum robot ramp on top of existing one?

[alexas]

As I am renting the place, I do not have the authority to remove the existing ramp at the threshold. However, the current ramp is too low for my vacuum robot to climb to the bathroom. Unfortunately, normal ramps wouldn't work as they require 90 degree angle in the threshold. I was wondering if there are any alternative solutions or adjustments that can be made in this situation. 

Thank you in advance 🙂

 

[JacobZ]

Hi @alexas,

Thank you for your question and welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community, it is fantastic to have you with us.

I imagine your vacuum robot has got fairly small wheels so the angle of the ramp would need to be reduced dramatically.

I'd suggest using 2440 x 900mm 4mm F27 Hardwood Ply Brace to construct a ramp. It can be cut to size to match the width of the door and extend out further than the threshold to create a duller angle.

This material is only 4mm thick, so it is very flexible but thin enough to allow the small tyres of your robot vacuum to get up the step.

Depending on the weight of your robot, you may be able to just use Scotch Mount 13mm x 1.9m Double-Sided Mounting Tape to stick the plybrace down. If it is much heavier, you may need to create a supporting structure beneath.

Another option that might work is to stick a 12 x 12mm 2.4m Tri Quad Tasmanian Oak, long face to long face with the current threshold, which will create a square face. You could then stick a Porta 30 x 12mm 2.4m Tasmanian Oak Bevel Glass Bead to the square face that you have created. This would make the incline less steep and potentially allow the robot to climb the ramp.

Allow me to tag @Noyade, @DIYGnome and @Dave-1 to see if they have any other ideas.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

[Dave-1]

Good Morning @alexas 

Thats a bit of a leap

Problem is the angle I think you will need will jut out into the walkway area by a fair bit. If you look up the specs of your vacummn cleaner it should be able to tell you the suggested max angle it can travel up. Or you can trial and test with a piece of cardboard say and see how steep it can handle?

If you let us know the model I am sure one of us can have a go at suggestions

Dave

[alexas]

Hey @JacobZ , thank you that's helpful!

I was thinking about adding a hardwood plank but I was unsure of what to use as a stabilizing agent between the plank and the floor to ensure it remains sturdy and non-fragile if I step on it accidentally. Also, is it easy to bend it at home to the needed angle? 

@Dave-1 I have eufy x10, but unfortunately, the manual does not provide information on the angle and thresholds it can handle. I believe it can climb on 20-30 degrees ramps.

[Dave-1]

Morning @alexas 

30 degrees should be able to be accomplished

I was thinking of that ply that @JacobZ has mentioned and then looking at timber moulding trim for skirting and seeing if something could be put together that will give you a smooth steady angle. Havnt really found one but the idea is there to use a couple of differant pieces maybe?

JacabZ's sheet as a base and then glue the floowing pieces as a step up so you can accomodate that angled edge for the door.

Brutus 50 x 6mm x 2.4m Building Moulding Cover Trim say 3 of them side by side, then another one on top, all a little offset from the one below to deal withthe existing trimp of the doorway.

Dave

[JacobZ]

Hi @alexas,

The ply brace is flexible, but it does not "bend" per se. It will flex, but unless it is locked in place, it will not stay in a bent shape.

Supporting the ply brace is the part of the puzzle that is quite difficult. My thought is to cut long triangular slivers from thicker plywood such as this 1200 x 1198mm 12mm Plywood Pine Premium BC Grade.

If you look up on Youtube how to build a timber skateboard ramp, you will see what I mean.

Let me know what you think.

Jacob
 

[strazto]

Hi @JacobZ
Funnily enough, I have the exact same question as OP, except my vacuum also has a mopping mode.

Do you know if 2440 x 900mm 4mm F27 Hardwood Ply Brace is waterproof (or rather, water resistant on the surface)?
The product page mentions "DD Veneers" which sounds promising for water resistance.

Also @alexas , if it helps, you can probably prototype your ramps using cardboard - it should be good enough to figure out the angle your robot can climb, and should be sturdy enough to support your vaccuum, at least for a while.

Once you're done, you can probably use the cardboard prototype as a template to help you cut the ply, too

The above prototype seems to work for my vaccuum - ~4cm rise, ~14cm run, so a gradient of ~ 28% , or 15 degrees angle

By the way, I'm not saying you should replace the threshold trim (I'm not sure it would fix your problem), but considering the 1cm gap between the tiling and the top of the trim, I think you're giving your RE a bit too much credit for their attention to detail

[JacobZ]

Hi @strazto,

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community, it is fantastic to have you with us.

DD veneer refers to the appearance grade of the timber with DD being quite low compared to something like this 2440 x 1220mm 9mm Plywood Hardwood Marine AA Grade.  Plybrace is usually used to brace up rough framing in houses, meaning it is not generally seen; therefore it can be rough, with lots of knots and imperfections allowing the timber mills to use up otherwise less desirable timber.

It is not waterproof, but being made from hardwood it is naturally somewhat water resistant. If you wanted it to be more water resistant, I'd suggest applying a clear varnish such as Cabot's Satin Water Based Cabothane Clear Polyurethane Timber Varnish.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

[EricL]

Hello @alexas 

Here are some sample images to give you an idea of how you can put the ramp together. In this iteration I've use 1200 x 1198mm 12mm Plywood Pine Premium BC Grade in combination with the Porta 30 x 12mm 2.4m Tasmanian Oak Bevel Glass Bead. I used the 70 x 35mm Framing MGP10 H2 Blue Pine 5.4m as the wedge support for the bottom of the ramp.

Please note that the measurements are for reference only, please adjust them to your needs.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[strazto]

Gotcha, thank you.
I actually wound up going with 1220 x 810mm 4mm Plywood Hardwood Marine AA Grade , because the bracing ply was in an accessible shelf at bunnings, the price was basically the same, and the marine ply was water resistant.

I think its water resistance is plenty sufficient for occasional light water exposure, so I won't add more treatments. I may add some cheap vinyl to the ramp to make it blend in a bit / a bit nicer to step on Winton 305 x 305mm Finger Wood Self Stick Vinyl Tile  (but we would step over that threshold anyway).

Overall, I'm pretty happy with the result, wasn't too much work either.

I used the existing trim (it was a rounded trim, 1cm lower than the actual threshold) to brace the ramp, and screwed it directly in.
I used some offcuts from the plywood as "spacers" where I screwed it in, to get the angle right.

I used a jigsaw to cut it to the template so it could be flush with the doorframe.

I accidentally cut off the bottom right part of the template, oops, but also who cares lol.

With an angle trim, it's probably a bit trickier, since I could use the curve of the round trim to set the angle, but overall, it shouldn't be too bad.

Don't overthink it, just send it