How to detect the difference between steel frames and wooden studs with stud finder?

[nagumuthu]

Hello All,

I'm using Ryobi Stud finder (https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-stud-finder_p0034497) to locate the stud. Upon drilling using Super Wallmate (https://www.bunnings.com.au/ramset-super-wallmate-toggle-anchor-10-pack_p2260188) noticed the stud as a metal frame. Finding it difficult to pierce through the metal frame using Super Wallmate.

I was looking for wooden stud and ended up the stud finder locating 'Steel frame'. Is there a way to identify the stud as 'Steel frame' / 'Wooden stud' through the stud finder.  The intent is to locate wooden stud and fix the super wall mate to it for mounting wall mount cabinet.

Please share your thoughts on this.

MM

[EricL]

Hello @nagumuthu

Thank you for posting pictures of your wall cabinet. If the metal bar will be carrying all the weight of the cabinet, I suggest adding two extra mounting points on the bar. I suggest using Ramset Super Wallmate Toggle Anchors if there are no steel studs behind the wall, but if you happen to hit another steel stud, I suggest using Zenith 12G x 45mm Galvanised Hex Head Metal Screws. 

I've placed an image below to give you an idea of where to add the extra mounting points. You will at least have four anchor points instead of just two. Please tell me what you think.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[MikeTNZ]

Hi @nagumuthu,

A 12 Gauge screw has a diameter of about 5.5mm in our "money", depending upon how many of these you are going to use to hang your cabinet and the total load (weight) inside the cabinet, that you want to store in there, I would probably err on the side of caution and safety and say no.

What exactly are you screwing these screws into behind the wall?

Like @EricL  said above, there is absolutely nothing wrong with over-engineering something like this, your prep work to get the wall to support a weight like this is very important, especially if the load is in a very "concentrated" lateral area across the width of the cabinet, if you use too few fasteners,

the end result will be that the fasteners will give up, one by one, with eventual catastrophic failure.

I'm more than willing to help you out if you can give me this further information to help you come up with a solution.

Cheers,

Mike T.

[nagumuthu]

Hello @MikeTNZ @EricL @MitchellMc 

Thanks for your comment and proposal.

Please refer to the video from the link. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xRTPFXgijdgUwbnNMFtiCd0sp4gH0zWo/view?usp=drivesdk.

Looks Ryobi stud finder is not detecting metal stud and always the last light is on. I ‘m wondering on its function for the purpose. Can it detect metal stud ?

Secondly at all times ‘AC detection’ is on. (red light). That should not be. Isn’t.

Thirdly, noticed the metal stud spans across the last two drilled holes (from the video) (in the plaster).  Electrical wires might pass through the metal stud housing and as such, it is not recommended to pass metal screws for securing the fixture (of the cabinet) to the plaster. Is my understanding correct.

That leaves the option of having anchor (Ramset) at the left and centre part of the fixture. Wondering on how the fixture can be secured at the right end, where the metal stud housing is present at the back of the plaster and metal screw option is ruled out considering electrical wires inside the metal stud housing.

Thanks

M.Muthu

[nagumuthu]

Hello @EricL 

Thanks for your recommendation.

The metal stud housing spans across the extreme right end and even when a hole is drilled as recommended, it will hit the metal stud housing and a Ramset Anchor could not be used at the extreme right ( that includes 25% of the length from the right end of the fixture)

Please share your thoughts on this.

Thanks

M.Muthu

[nagumuthu]

The cabinet (exactly the same as other ones) that is to be fixed within the blue taped zone, using the fixture (image shown in earlier posts) that should be secured to the plaster board.

[MitchellMc]

Hi @nagumuthu,

This detector is suitable for metal studs. Try turning the unit on and calibrating it off the stud instead of over it. I suspect that is why you're not getting a proper reading and the AC detection light is constantly on. "Place the unit against the wall and press and hold one or both ON/OFF buttons. Hold the product still to allow the unit to calibrate. When the calibration process is completed, the LED lights will illuminate in sequence and then all flash once. NOTE: Do not place the unit over a stud during the calibration process.".

Once the detector is functioning correctly, locate the left-hand side of the metal frame on the right of your taped area. A Wallmate toggle can be placed in the plaster just off its edge. Typically wall cabinets are screwed to each other, so you'd be screwing the new cabinet to the existing one. That will aid in supporting the right-hand side, but you'll still need additional fixing in the metal stud. Have another check once the detector is calibrated correctly to see if AC is present in the area of the right-hand side fixings, and if not, use Zenith 12G x 65mm Galvanised Hex Head Metal Screws to screw the bracket to the metal stud.

Mitchell

[MikeTNZ]

Hi @MitchellMc,

Brilliant explanation, it is all in the calibration.

These types of detectors work on density of materials under the sensing head.

One other thing, with the AC detection thing, always check on both sides of the wall that there are no socket-outlets or switches below

where you are about to drill into.

If there are fittings on the wall in the same vicinity, seek the services of a qualified electrician BEFORE you start drilling into the wall,

I have been down this particular road so many times with homeowners, it winds up getting quite expensive, when a simple heads-up

would have saved a lot of time and money.