Tips wanted for plank setout for long deck

[JM2000]

We are planning on using EkoDeck for all our decks for a new house build.  I am aware of the heat issues.

My main query is over the setout.   The decks will be 9m long by 3.5m wide and some smaller ones

We propose to have a staggered plank setout rather than the breaker arrangement as shown on EkoDeck info.

The rafters are wooden with a "protectadeck" strip on top and under the deck.  The breaker board arrangement would require additional support at the rafter (450 crs)  to support.  I am also conscious of wastage and costs.

Has anyone done long decks with staggered board setout and any issues with gap management; boards walking and also any issues with the "protectadeck" walking with the thermal movement.  Tips please

Also, the last plank will overhang the fascia board, so how is this plank retained to the rafter/fascia beam

Many thanks

JM

[MitchellMc]

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @JM2000. It's wonderful to have you join us and many thanks for the questions about Ekodeck installation.

Ekodeck decking boards expand and contract along their length with changes in temperature. Ekodeck strongly recommends the use of a breaker board instead of a staggered plank setout. Breaker boards minimise the visual effect of butt joint and mitre joint gaps opening and closing. They also prevent issues that can arise when both boards at a butt joint expand and make contact with each other.

It would be worth having a read of their installation instructions and 3mm spacing guidelines. There are also details of how to finish your boards at the last joist/frame.

It would be my recommendation that you follow the guidelines for the product and not use a staggered layout. The breaker board is not there as a visual design choice. It's strongly recommended by the manufacturer to ensure that you don't experience issues from expansion and contraction.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

[JM2000]

Thanks Mitchell

This 8s an elevated verandah and there is a verandah below.  Looking at a the ekodeck on line, seems like it's used for close to ground decks where moisture, access for maintenance and sun exposure are issues to consider.

For the breaker board, you need two joists close together and this will be a visual item on the downstairs verandah.

Right now, I'm thinking of just sticking to wood and use Eko decks where their advantages shine unless there are good examples of use on elevated verandah (only found one and the planks were top fixed and it was an architectural project)