How to tidy up gaps behind architraves?

[jeremy8]

Hi, I filled up some gaps with expanding foam and then added architraves to my window. The problem is I can still see in behind the architrave. I was hoping I could sand and paint  the expanding foam however the finish is very bubbly and coarse so it won’t look good. 
Would there be another suggestion to cover this gap?  I’m thinking maybe a piece of timber but I’m not sure how to figure out how to cut it to fit nicely?

thanks in advance!!

 

[EricL]

Hello @jeremy8 

Thanks for sharing your question about closing the gaps in your windows architrave. I propose using Selleys 430g White No More Gaps Exterior Gap Filler. By using masking tape you'll be able to create borders that will give you a flawless finish with your application. 

Here is a handy step-by-step guide: How to silicone seal a bath (the technique used can be applied to your project)

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their recommendations.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

[Nailbag]

Hi @jeremy8 I recommend following @EricL suggestion as that's the most common and easiest solution. Though the Selly's product is excellent, I personally use an exterior gap filler by Poly. I have used this countless times and it's excellent. Fast drying and very solid and easily paintable. Once applied, you can create a very smooth finish by applying a light spray with soapy water along the sealant line then use the end of an ice-cream stick to smooth it off. It does take a bit of practice.

regards, Nailbag.

[Dave-1]

Morning @jeremy8 

I was thinking of using a contour guage and making up a matching piece of timber to hug the weatherboards.

DTA 250mm Plastic Contour Tiling Gauge That way you could use nails to tap into the side of the window. It would look like a piece of facing timber just jagged like a large sawblade.

Dave

[JacobZ]

Hi @Dave-1,

Just to follow on with this, these pieces of timber are common practice in New Zealand and are referred to as scribers or weatherboard scribers.

It's certainly possible, and there are quite a few videos out there demonstrating how to do it, but it is a fairly advanced technique.

Jacob

[Dave-1]

Morning @JacobZ 

Just learnt a new name hahahah love it!

Dave

[jeremy8]

Thanks Dave,  that’s a very creative idea and I reckon I’ll give that a go!  Should make a really nicely fitting timber to slot right in !  I’ll let you know how I go!

[Nailbag]

Hi @jeremy8 last year I had to make up a scribed end-cap for an external weatherboard door to solve a similar issue as gap sealant wasn't going to do the job and used the technique as @Dave-1 mentioned. I used this video to learn the technique as he's an Aussie showing nice clear steps.

As @JacobZ mentioned it's an advanced cut using a jigsaw. The most important points are to use a hardwood, like Tassie Oak and not pine, being the cheaper option. As this will more likely to bend during the cut and split. The other point is to support the timber under each end of each cut out and not overhanging like he does in the video. and to clamp it at those points. This will have a major impact on vibration from the jigsaw on the wood. Use a medium toothed wood blade on high speed on a zero orbital setting.

Then make sure you prime all sides of the timber before fitting to prevent any long term rot. You can apply that gap filler I recommended along the edges.

Regards, Nailbag