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Hi, I have some acoustic panels which have been attached to an internal gyprock wall using liquid nails. The original gyprock wall was plain painted wall.
Unfortunately I now have to remove the panels from the wall and just wondering that what's the best way to do so?
Will removing these result in damaging the gyprock wall or the panels themselves? Can this wall be repainted or do I have to put all new gyprock sheets?
Hi @pash81,
It's highly likely that damage would be caused to the plaster and quite possibly to the panels themselves. I imagine the Liquid Nails won't release from the panels, and the plaster will be the weakest link. Best case, it just pulls the paint off and maybe the paper coating of the plaster. Worst case, it pulls chunks of the plaster off. The damage to the sheets will be repairable, but it might be worth getting a professional plasterer to skim-coat the whole wall if the damage is extensive.
Can I ask why you need to remove the panels? Perhaps our helpful members might have other solutions for you to the problem.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
I did notice that @pash81. Did you not have much luck discussing the issue with the installer? One of the basic requirements of installing panelling is to ensure that they match up and are consistent across the span. Given the cost of these panels and the potential for damage to the wall, not to mention the installation cost, I'd suggest that it would be best to have the installer come back and correct the issue.
You've got the cutouts for the powerpoint and for the ceiling beam, which will make it hard to adjust the positions of the panels.
Mitchell
Sorry @pash81. I presumed these might be large panels with timber beading attached to them.
In this sort of scenario, where we've made a mistake and worked from the outside in, measurements should be taken to ensure the panels will work out consistently. There's not much chance they would align perfectly. I suggest measuring the large gap and then minus the consistent gap from that. Say the gap is meant to be 10mm, but the large gap is 20mm. That gives you 10mm that needs to be absorbed into the pattern. Take possibly the last 5-10 panels back off on the left-hand side of the gap; the more, the better. Re-fix those ten panels with a gap of 11mm between them instead of the ten. By the time you finish the section, the gap should be consistent. Unlike the huge difference you currently have, the human eye won't be able to detect the 1mm difference in spacing on each panel. It's all about distributing that inconsistency over multiple boards. It's the same principle we apply when laying decking boards. If you are going to fall short or go over at the end of laying the deck, you add or remove fractions of the gap leading up to the finish. I've created a rendering below for you to illustrate. I've taken the green panels and added slightly more to their gaps to finish where we should be.
You can also do it the opposite way by minimising the gap per panel to allow an additional panel into the pattern.
Mitchell
These are 600mm wide panels. Timber battens are attached to a felt like material at the back.
I only have 3 timber batten width to play with. The standard gap between battens is 13mm where as the big gap is 27mm. If I distribute the gap evenly between 3/4 timber battens , each will be 17mm instead of 13mm.
Issue is that the timber battens are attached to the felt with quite strong staples and I don't know if it's easy to remove them or not. I've already broken a timber batten trying to remove it
Right, so they are on a backing @pash81. You can't really change the spacing, then, as you'll see the white wall through the gaps. One whole side really needs to be pulled off and started in the middle, working out to the wall. It still will have the gap at the wall, but at least it wouldn't be in the middle.
I'd recommend you exhaust all options with the installer before attempting this work yourself.
Mitchell
