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A hollow-core internal door was jamming in the frame on the latch side at the top. It looked as if the door was out of vertical so I recessed the top hinge further into the frame. Now the door won't close at all - it seems to be somehow too big for the frame. The hinge-side vertical frame component is proud of the panelling by 1-3 mm. I don't see how recessing the hinge could have caused the frame to expand but that appears to be what has happened. I could plane the sides down but I thought there might be some way to squeeze the door back to its correct width.
In the image, the left-hand white area is the panel, the brown area is the frame protruding beyond the panel, the black is the gap and the right-hand white area is the steel jamb and wall
Any ideas?
Thanks
Hi Ron.
I'm no carpenter, but I believe if you recess the frame hinge section too much - the door will bind and be hard to close. Forcing it would be peeling that wooden strip from the steel frame.
Can you see how that wooden strip is attached to the steel frame? Or maybe I'm misinterpreting the above?
Hello @Ronb1949
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's fantastic to have you join us, and thank you for sharing your question about your oversized door.
It's great that you've received excellent advice from @Noyade. The drawing that was made is very close to what happened to your door setup. By recessing the hinge further the pivot point of the door has moved along with the hinge causing the door to hit the frame before it can totally close.
A good test would be to remove the screws of the hinge on the side that you rebated. As soon as you do this you'll see that the door will close properly. Observe carefully where the hinge is located. You'll notice that there'll be a gap due to the recess you've cut.
In order to repair the door, I suggest returning the door to its original state. I propose using galvanized washers to make up for the timber that you rebated away. Once it's back to how it was where the top of the door was catching on to the top of the steel frame. I recommend planning the top of the door that is catching. The door needs to be trimmed so that it fits into the frame.
Please keep us updated with your progress, we look forward to seeing your door fixed.
Let me tag our experienced members @TedBear, @ProjectPete, and @tom_builds for their recommendations.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Eric
Thanks for your replies. I realise I've made a complete mess of this operation. What I can't understand is how the door is now wider then when I first started trying to fix it - the inside frame was not showing outside the panel as it is now. I'll try your suggestions, but I might also take the door down and see if I can return it to its original width and condition.
Thanks again
Hi @Ronb1949
I hope I'm wrong with my suspicion. I think the door frame cover has popped off the door frame itself. If the door was being persuaded to close despite its strong refusal, the door frame flexed, but the door cover didn't. That's why it looks like the door grew bigger.
I suggest removing the entire door from the frame and laying it down on your workbench. Look carefully all around the sides and see if the door cover or any part of the frame has developed a gap or has lifted off the door cover. I suggest using Selleys 350g Heavy Duty Liquid Nails to glue the frame back together. I recommend using Paslode 40 x 1.6mm 100g Bright Steel Bullet Head Nails to firm up the cover and prevent it from slipping.
If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.
Eric
Hi All
Thanks for all your advice. I've returned the door to its original state, more or less, and it's back to how it was - needing sanding of the latch side and patching all the damage I caused. I will think and plan much more carefully if that sort of thing needs doing in the future! I bought an Ozito angle sander at Bunnings to complete the repair.
Thanks again!
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