Can slate be tiled over? Or painted? Update wood heater slate hearth

[Magpie77]

Our 70s home has a slate hearth around the wood heater; is there any way of updating the tiling of this area? I've read conflicting online articles that a self-levelling compound could be used before tiling with suitable fireplace tiles but other articles say that's not possible with slate? I don't want to remove the slate - a lot of effort for a small area plus not sure how I'd get behind the wood heater. The area obviously isn't walked on, although we do stand on the front section when the fire's going in winter.

My main issue with the slate (apart from looking very dated) is the deep sections between the tiles - in winter this catches the ash etc when cleaning the fire. The dustpan gets a bit out, but usually I have to vacuum each time. Not a big deal I know, just inconvenience!

If it can't be tiled over, is there something I can fill in the grouted sections between tiles, then paint over the top with a tile paint??

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

[JacobZ]

Hi @Magpie77,

A warm welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community and thank you for your question.

I have contacted our self-levelling compound suppliers in the past and they have all advised against using self-levelling compounds over slate.

Unfortunately, this makes installing tiles over the top of the slate not an advisable option. If you were set on retiling the area, you would need to remove the slate and start again. This gives you the most options in terms of aesthetics.

Outside of this, the only option I can see to stop the ash accumulating in the deep grout lines is to remove and regrout to a higher level.

Allow me to tag @Dave-1, @Nailbag and @Noyade to see if they have any ideas.

Let me know what you think.

Jacob

[Dave-1]

Good Evening @Magpie77 

Yeah I wouldnt be using a leveling compound on slate, The slate has no structual strenth and will crack with movement and that would crack the leveling compiund and so on. Apart from that my loungeroom floor somewhere in its past life had a stove with a stone hearth as well. The floor dips now in that area 😕 Its a pain as I will haveto fix it. Adding weight to yours to me pushes it closer to doing the same for you.

As a work around, how about going to your local welders and have a metal tray with lip made up that fits that tiled areea accurately? You could also change the timber trim around the area to butt up against the new tray so it blends smoothly.

Dave

[Magpie77]

Thank you Jacob & Dave, I appreciate your reply and advice.

@Dave-1 thanks for the idea of metal tray to fit over the top - much appreciated!

@JacobZ - if I were to re-grout to a higher level, what would you recommend?

I came across another thread where they were considering doing a lime wash over their slate (https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/t5/Whole-of-House/How-to-lighten-a-slate-floor/td-p/173022); the inspo pic looks great and is what I'm now considering. I've sent a question to the OP but it was a couple of years ago. I'll need to do a bit more research I think.

Thanks again!

[Nailbag]

Hi @Magpie77 

There is only one paint that would be suitable called "pot belly black" which is heat rated to 300deg C. So, could handle any hot ashes etc falling on it. But it only comes in black as the name suggests. As per the comments made by @JacobZ the most suitable and better cosmetically option would be to remove the existing hearth and replace it with a new one. Plus sometimes starting fresh is actually an easier task than a workaround.

Nailbag

[Magpie77]

Hi @Nailbag thanks so much - of course that makes perfect sense to only use the heat rated paint. Great resource here for a novice like me to ask these stupid questions somewhat anonymously! Thanks!

Do you think I can re-grout between tiles to a higher level to at least avoid the difficulty of cleaning up the ash?

[Nailbag]

Hi @Magpie77 

Yes you could definitely raise the level of the grout. You would need to first remove most of the existing grout as @JacobZ mentioned using something like a diamond wheel on an angle grinder to speed the process up. Just be careful to avoid going too close or making contact with the slate as it can break away very easily. You can also get grout removing blades in various shapes for Multitiools if you have one of those.

Also be aware that the dust created will be extensive. using a workshop vacuum hose held near the cutting path will help reduce this considerably. So, I would also tape to the ceiling and walls a quality painter's plastic drop sheets. Run the tape down all edges like the one in my picture below. You will also need a decent face mask, googles, gloves and I would wear and disposable overalls.

Nailbag

[JacobZ]

Hi @Magpie77,

If you were to remove the grout, I would suggest using this Dunlop 15kg Mid Grey Wide Joint Grout with Davco 1L 4 In 1 Grout Additive, which will add some flexibility to the grout that will help with their width.

Let me know what you think.

Jacob

[Magpie77]

Hi @JacobZ thank you so much. Sounds like the way to go!

Appreciate all your help and advice, and also @Nailbag and @Dave-1