How to fix water drainage around the house?

[tom138]

Hi, just wondering if I can get some advise on water drainage around my house.

This is basically what happens after every substantial rain:

 

 

All the water runs into this area as the ground slopes towards the house:

It seems like I will need to excavate and build some sort of retaining wall? I am also thinking that I could install something like Everhard EasyDrain channel into the highlighted area and also pour some new concrete over this footpath to fix the cracks and slope it so that water runs into the channel:

 

I am unsure where to route it next though as there is no nature downslope to send it to. One option I considered was connect it to the existing stormwater pipe and maybe add a rainwater pit but I am not sure whether the existing 90mm stormwater pipe can handle all the water from the roof as well as this.

Any advise and guidance would be much appreciated!  

Thanks,

Tom 

[EricL]

Hello @tom138 

Thanks for sharing your question about fixing the drain around the house. I propose using Everhard 3m EasyDRAIN Polymer Grate And Prejoined Channel in combination with an Everhard EasyDRAIN Polymer Rainwater Pit Case. I also suggest building a concrete buffer in front of your brick wall so that the house is not in direct contact with the turf and soil.

When it comes to your stormwater drain, I suggest hiring a licensed plumber to handle the connection, as this task requires professional plumbing expertise. This would also be a good opportunity to ask the plumber to upgrade your storm water from 90mm to 100mm for the possible increase volume of water draining out.

One of the other things you can check are the other storm drains on your property. If there only a few down pipes it would be a good idea to perhaps add some more so that the gutters will not get too full and overflow.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their recommendations. 

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

[Nailbag]

Hi @tom138 The advice @EricL has provided would be the right angle of attack for the issues. However from the photos supplied, the volume of water pooling against your house appears to be far more substantial than I would expect from just the fall of the land.

You are also correct in the assumption that adding any form or additional drainage to the existing stormwater system potential will cause other issues. Then there are the legalities of doing this both from a professional trades POV and local government.

I would be getting in touch with a local plumber to come and scope the situation, then maybe have them on-call during the next downpour so they can establish the root cause and effects as it appears to be very substantial and well over and above a normal DIY repair scenario.

Regards, Nailbag.                                 

[Dave-1]

Morning @tom138 

Stormwater runoff can be a pain but it is fixable, just sometimes requires a lot of work.

Couple of questions first up.

That stormwater pipe at the edge of the building, is it connected to the stormwater piping for the house?

The overflow seems to be hading towards that corner (stormwater pipe) and your neighbours fence. What is at theother end of that corner?

Do you know where your stormwater exits to the street?

When i re-did my stormwater and yeah it was a large task. I foundthat the old 90mm stormwater pipe had been compressed in multiple areas by the surrounding clay just slowly squeezing over the years. 

First step would be to get a plumber out to verify how clear the stormwater pipes are and give some suggestions to what can be and should be done. I shoved my house hose up the stormwater pipe from the street thinking to work backwards.... It made maybe 4m and I ran into issues of a blockage. Then had the plumber use his camera from the downpipe back towards the street and that only went a few meters also. In the end it was a replace and relandscape to fix the issue. 

Stormwater rectification stage 1 

Stormwater rectification stage 2 

Are part of the stormwater rectification works I did if you want to take a wander.

A plumber will also be able tro point out the difference between a stormwater point and a sewage point  

Will wait for your answers and see if I I can come up with some ideas then.

Dave

Dave

[tom138]

Thank you all for great advise. Much appreciated!

@EricL - can I just lay a new layer concrete over the existing concrete to cover the cracks and to adjust slope? I don’t think I will be able to concrete level whole length of the wall level with the existing concrete path. Any suggestions how to handle this step down? 

Connecting to the existing stormwater pipe seems reasonably straightforward, the only reason to have plumber do that would be to make the council happy I am going to check with my plumber whether the existing pipe will handle additional drainage or whether I should upgrade to 100mm.

@Nailbag - you are right, it is not just from fall of the land, I also have an overflowing gutter along this whole wall and all that water flows into that corner. I am in the process of getting a quote for an additional down pipe.     

@Dave-1 - yes the downpipe is connected to the stormwater pipe. The other end of the corner looks like this: 

There is about 10-15cm concrete along this wall but it is lower than the soil. I guess I will need to extend this and possibly excavate to create slope and also add another grated channel here.

I actually got my stormwater pipe inspected few weeks ago. They couldn’t get through with the camera as it was blocked. They marked where the blockage was and I then dug and found that there were several holes and a ton of tree roots in it, so I replaced that section. I also had to dig out the other end and it is now daylighted and unblocked. But when it rains a lot, water is pooling at the end of the pipe and doesn’t flow to the street as that end is sitting in a dip so the first thing I am planning to do is to dig out a channel to make sure runoff is directed to the street.

Tom

[Dave-1]

Afternoon @tom138 

Have you had the plumber come back to make sure the rest of the pipe is ok? Or put a hose up the pipe to see how far it can go? The only reason I ask is that my pipe was the old school soft 90mm stormwater pipe and there were a LOT of compressions along the length, Silt buildup within the pipe would bank up and then slowly drain but efffectivly it was blocked.

With that concrete path section 😕 Id suggest to remove and redo. If you break up the concrete small enough you could form a bed for the new path to sit on? I am taking into consideration where your air vents are and how close to the ground/path your floor level is.

Photo number 4 of your original post. When I think of @EricL's drawing with the slotted drain and factor in that second drainpipe next to the decks post makes me think that you could solve the excess water before it gets to the house buy putting in a drain channel along the rear of the deck and into that stormwater pipe, that way the water wont make it a muddy soup when it rains? Is under the deck sealed from rain?

Dave

[EricL]

Hello @tom138 

I suggest using Dingo 20kg Self-Levelling Cement to change the fall of the higher section. It is possible to link the raised section with the new slab you'll be putting in. I suggest using standard 90mm PVC pipe to link the EasyDRAIN together.

I've modified the image I drew yesterday please have a look and tell me what you think.

If you need further assistance, please let me know.

Eric

[tom138]

@EricL  - The product you linked is not available at my local store at the moment. Could I use just the Bastion concrete mix? I  think I even have a bag lying around.

@Dave-1  - the stormwater pipe should be reasonably clear as have I ran a water hose through it and water was getting through.

I’d prefer to keep the existing slab in place, as it has the right slope, and just extend it. I don’t think I can go lower anyway as it is currently level with the garage floor and I would like to keep it that way. But the new part doesn’t need to be that high so I will make a step down and connect the drain as per @EricL‘s suggestion. 

I think most of the water is actually coming from the the overflowing gutter so I need to solve that first. I got a quote for an additional downpipe so here is what I am thinking:

 

 

Blue = new downpipe that connects to a grated channel (yellow). Red is where I need to cut the current concrete to make that connection. New section of the concrete slab is in grey. Red circle at the end of the channel drain is a pit case that will connect to the existing stormwater pipe. The whole slab will have fall towards that corner and also away from the house.

I will start with removing dirt this weekend and preparing it for laying the channel and pouring concrete.

[Dave-1]

Afternoon @tom138 

I like your plan of action. I bet once you finish it you will run out in the rain the first time you get a downpour! Would love to see the project as you step through. Solving water problems is a pain but something I think is rewarding to see when it works!

Dave

[EricL]

Hi @tom138 

If you are thinking of using a Bastion mix, I propose using a builder's line to make sure that your concrete work is going in the right direction. I agree with @Dave-1 and I think your plan of action is very good. 

Please remember to post progress photos, I'm sure our members will be keen to see the results of your effort.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric