How to create an enclosed shed and storage area?

[seldy]

Hi all,

I hope to get some advice on making this space more enclosed and filling in any gaps.

My goal is to revitalise this space behind our granny flat as a shed and storage area. The space is quite narrow, but we can fit garage shelves on one side and maybe hang some tools on the other side.

Ideally I want to install a door and fill in any gaps to enclose the whole area:

• At the front, I would like to install a door to enclose the space 
• I would like to enclose the light gap above near the ceiling, for the wall with the dark PVC panel. 
• Similarly, I want to fill in gaps from the smaller wall with the clear PVC panel. I like to keep the PVC panel because it lets in much light.

I have some basic tools (circular saw, mitre saw, and some power drills) and am pretty new to DIY, so any advice regarding what material, method and how to install it would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

The front of the area that I'm working with. I would like to install a door here to enclose the spaceI would like to fill in the gap and would love advice on how and what material I can use to fill the light gapCloser view of the gap I would like to coverThe space looking out to the gardenSimilar to the other wall there are some small holes with this clear plastic sheet wall I want to cocer

[MitchellMc]

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @seldy. It's wonderful to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about creating an enclosed shed.

You can start by installing a sturdy door frame at the front. You'll need to build some framework to support the door jamb. Here are a few helpful guides: How to build a stud wall, How to install a door jamb and How to hang a door.

For the gap above the wall with the dark PVC panel, consider using clear polycarbonate sheeting, then sealing it with weatherstripping or caulking to keep it secure and airtight.

For the smaller wall with the clear PVC panel, you can use polycarbonate panels once again. If there are many holes you might like to replace the existing sheets with new panels. The other option here is to build a stud frame and seal it to the adjacent walls. You can then use full polycarbonate panels fixed to the studs. This will create a much cleaner look and you'll be able to seal the area more effectively.

With your basic tools, you should be able to measure, cut, and fit these materials relatively easily.

Let me mention @Nailbag, @DIYGnome  and @Dave-1 to see if they have any thoughts.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell
 

[Dave-1]

Good Evening @seldy 

That would defenintly be a nice area to secure. I do see one problem tho. The instantanious water heater cant be in an enclosed area. It dosnt exclude you from some of the things you want but you wont be able to seal it up with solid walls.

The Doorway Id actually go to a slatted gate at least 40mm between slats, still allows a lot of air through but not a solid panel. The gate cant be lockable I think? You would have to check with your gas supplier for their rulings (Or a plumber)

The rear gap you want some clear perspex on, id also go for a slatted timber with at least 40mm gaps between the timbers. You dont want gas to ever have a chance to pool.

For the top roofline gap, what is on the roof of the shed? and is that a concrete roof above the area? You could screw/bolt a ridge cap so it kicks out over the shed from on top of the shed. Something like this Brutus 50 x 75mm x 3.0m Jazz Building Moulding Flashing with the flat side against the outside edge of the concrete roof/patio? with silastic between it and the concrete so that water hitting it will run down and kick out onto the tin sheds roof.

Dave

[EricL]

Hello @Dave-1 

Good spotting on the gas water heater. It's definitely something that has to be addressed before the entire area is closed off. But if regulations are strict then ventilation must be provided for the unit.

Thanks for looking out for our members.

Eric

[EricL]

Hello @seldy 

I totally agree with @Dave-1 regarding the gas hot water heater. The exhaust coming out of that unit is very hot and enclosing it in a shed-like structure might not be an option. I propose speaking with your plumber or gas fitter regarding adding a flue or relocating the unit out of the enclosed space. They will also be familiar with the rules and regulations of your local council regarding gas hot water heaters.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

[Nailbag]

Hi @seldy I think the ideal solution would be to follow the steps outlined by @MitchellMc for the construction of the front frame and door, rear wall incorporating the poly panel and sealing the gaps. You have all the tools already to do this yourself and to make the door an easier job, pre-hung external doors and jambs are available through Bunnings.

But before getting started as both @EricL @ @Dave-1 have highlighted, the instant hot water service needs to be considered. The good news is that it doesn't need to be relocated, but will most likely need to be flued or it can be replaced with a model that is designed for internal use like the Rennai 26i. A licensed "Gas" plumber. I say "Gas" because not all plumbers are gas licensed so check that when researching. I'm not 100% sure but it looks like a Rennai Infinite or a Rheem, so you could start by giving them a call and asking for one of their local approved installers to come and have a look. 

Hope that helps.

Regards, Nailbag

[seldy]

Thank you for taking the time to respond to my post. I really appreciate the help and guidance.

I have considered everyone's recommendation and decided that I'll go with the slated gate for the door solution and fill in the light gaps with a Bastion 2.5m Clear Polycarbonate Roofing Sheet, where I will cut it to size for both walls (wall with dark PVC panel and other wall with clear PVC panel.

@Dave-1 I'm unsure if the roof is made out of concrete. I'm guessing it is just a timber with plasterboard since this area that I'm working with is the back of the granny flat. I took another photo without the reflection. Also I'm unsure if I can use the moulding because I am unable to access the other side of the dark PVC panel wall as that's my neighbours property.

@MitchellMc @Nailbag @EricL @Dave-1 - I have some follow up questions hoping that you can easily clarify:

1. How do I attach the Bastion 2.5m Clear Polycarbonate Roofing Sheet on the wall with the existing dark PVC panel and what type of screw would I use? Do I need to attach the roofing sheet to the roof somehow or do I attach it to the existing dark PVC panel?

2. For the wall with the clear PVC panel, I have circled the 'gaps' which is at the corner of the dark and clear PVC panel. Do I just cut a new a clear PVC panel to size and bind it using a clear clear sealant?

I thought about the stud frame but then it would give a similar result because of the dark PVC panel right?

2. 

[Nailbag]

Hi @seldy 

To quickly check if the roof is plaster or cement sheet (it definitely won't be concrete), just tap a small nail or twist a small screwdriver in a corner spot. If they go in easily and white dust comes out, then its plasterboard. If you can't it's most likely fibre cement sheet. These sheets will most likely have some form of raised cover strip or joiner where they butt together. Plaster won't, at least it shouldn't.

Q1: Use Polydome self-drilling screws with a hex head bit fitted to your drill/driver or impact driver. These screw in to the highpoint rib. They have a grab point just under the rubber seal so, you need to slightly compress the rib to drive it through the poly, then slightly reverse out. 

Q2: Your correct. I would use a clear roof and gutter sealant.

Regards, Nailbag

[Dave-1]

Evening @seldy 

I was also thinking of maybe some rivits with wide heads and just space them up about 20cm apart. Id do a test on an offcut to make sure it works and not cracks the perspex is all. Otherwise @Nailbag's screw idea would also work. (test it tho as I dont trust perspex )

Dave

[Nailbag]

Hi @seldy Reading @Dave-1 great suggestion I realised I misunderstood that you're wanting to fix the polycarbonate sheet over the PVC panel. In that case as @Dave-1 highlighted, there is a chance the PVC will crack. The polycarbonate sheet will still need to be fixed as I described, but to avoid the chance the PVC will crack, I would first cut the Poly and mark the locations for the screws. Then pre drill 8mm holes and position it over the PVC. Use a long tipped marker to mark the PVC and pre-drill 8mm pilot holes ready for the poly fasteners and then fix that sheet.

Regards, Nailbag