Tiles or Hanwood for the bathroom? What are you thoughts please?

[Maxtiger]

Hi there!

I have some new ceramic tiles which were "given" a decade ago, (brought over from Bali)  that can go in my bathroom but I don't particularly like them greatly.

However with 100% moisture levels in corners of the old laminate currently there now time for a fix.

So should I use these tiles, FREE (a friend who has started a handyman business recently has offered to do so, he's done tiling but not waterproof before but used to be an engineer) or should I go for a hybrid tile or Hanwood - https://www.bunnings.co.nz/hanwood-7-5mm-classic-oak-wpc-waterproof-flooring_p0014474

Ideas appreciated please?

Thanks

[JaneK]

Welcome to Bunnings Workshop @Maxtiger !

You might get more specific advice about the pros and cons of the different options available to you if you could share a photo of your bathroom so we can get a sense of your setup. This video gives you some advice on how to waterproof your bathroom floor. Let me tag @2Belindas who always has great advice about how to make things beautiful on a budget. I'm sure @redracer01 and @MitchellMc will have some advice for you too. 

Jane

[MitchellMc]

Hi @Maxtiger,

Whether you use the tiles or go for the water-proof flooring, it's really a personal preference. What I will encourage you to do is work on the high moisture levels. Water-proofing is the foundation of any good bathroom renovation. If it's not done correctly, it can cause costly repairs in the future. Please have a read through @Adam_W's recent discussion on his water-proofing failure.

Do you have any idea where the moisture is coming from? Would it be limited ventilation or more importantly, perhaps a failed water-proofing membrane?

Mitchell

[Maxtiger]

Suggestions please - I have a friend who has started a Handyman business recently.

He is helping me repair/renovate my bathroom and says he can waterproof and tile it for me.

He's done a bit of tiling in the past he says but does say he will have to buy tiling blades. (so obviously not that recently). 

He will charge me $35/hour NZ.

Should I go with him or a professional tiler?

I feel he might go quite slowly so in the end more economical to go with the experienced person? 

When you hire a tiler you pay per sqm correct?

I have approximately 6 floor and 4 wall...

[MitchellMc]

Hi @Maxtiger,

That's a question that will be quite difficult for our members to give you an answer on. I would encourage you first to get a couple of quotes from tilers and ask them how long it will take. Ask your friend how long they believe it will take them, and then work out the difference in price between the two. The issue I see is that your friend could take four weeks at the hourly rate, whereas a tiler might take two weeks, cost more, but you'll end up with a quality installation. The defining factor for me is that you have six floors and four walls. I would only want a professional doing a job of that size, giving me a quote on cost and estimating how long it will take. They will also have an obligation to finish on time and deal with any likely issues.

Tiling is one thing, and almost everyone can do it if you take your time. However, waterproofing needs to be done right, and if it's not, it can cost a considerable amount to repair. Perhaps you might like to get your friend to do some finishing work or even grout the tiles, which could save some cost.

Mitchell

[Maxtiger]

Thanks Mitchell,

Sorry that was a typo - I only have 6 metres of floor in the bathroom to Tile with 395mm ceramic tiles then 4 metres? of wall in an old 80 year old state house. 

Anyway realised my builder hadn't done measurements thoughtfully enough and that the layout, vanity and bath installation he suggested didn't fit my small bathroom.

With other mistakes he's made, or excuses that will hold up his work - I've let him go.

Now looking for Tilers and hoping to get a professional builder that did work for me before?

Do tiles always require 400mm nogs - joists even if you have a hard, (rimu) floor that is stable?

THanks from Max

[MitchellMc]

Since the job isn't as large as I first thought, I would be less concerned with using your friend Max (@Maxtiger). However, you would still want assurance that the job will be done. Perhaps don't skip the quote and contract part just because he is a friend. Clearly outlining the job's expectations keeps you both accountable and is good practise, especially when dealing with friends.

It's always best to trust your intuition when it comes to builders. If you are not happy with your job, you are right to look elsewhere. You only get one go at these types of projects, and they need to be done right the first time.

Keeps us updated, and as always, reach out if you need any assistance. We're here to help.

Mitchell

[Maxtiger]

FOR THOSE WHO KNOW ABOUT BATHROOM TILING AND OLD WOODEN STATE HOUSES IN NEW ZEALAND?

Interesting, had different tilers in and went for the one who said it would take two days. (Waterproofing of whole floor and bath sides , tiling , chrome trims on top of skirting tiles.)

He was an older chap.

Interesting how some tilers can do it all in one day!??

My 80+ year old house has just had the ceramic underlay fitted now by builders but it's not level - do tilers put a compound do level it out more?

My tiler said he does 3 layers of waterproofing...

Old wooden houses do tend to lean in yes???

Ta!

[MitchellMc]

Hi @Maxtiger,

I wouldn't expect an older timber house to have perfectly flat floors. The amount of fall over the floor will govern what needs to be done before tiling. If there is a floor drain in the room, then the tiles are laid so the water flows into it. If there is only a small slope on the floor, this grading towards the drain can be done using the tile adhesive. If the floor has a large slope, say 50mm+ over its width, then a self-levelling compound could be applied over the area to correct the issue.

I'd suggest you ask the tiler how they will be accounting for the sloped floor and would levelling be needed before starting. 

Mitchell