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So during Covid, early last year, I fell in my shower and shattered the hardened glass panel. I got off with a few scratches, but this is not the post for that.
This is the surviving sliding door section of the shower.
I have the frame of the single panel, in the garage, all intact, sans the silicone insert, where the glass fits into. Getting a new cabin and/or the panel fitted with new glass into the frame was quite expensive, so I am rolling up the sleeves to give it a go myself.
I am in the process of ordering the correct dimensioned hardened glass sheet, with polished edges… actually it may be unpolished as well… pending the price asked for the difference.
Anyway… if and when I get the panel of hardened glass, what advice do you all have for me placing it back in the frame?
I am guessing that I will be needing either silicone, to secure the glass panel into the frame, either via caulking, or by buying a roll of silicone edging of sorts? Apologies if I am not using the correct terminology, by the way.
I have an angle grinder, as well as a rotary tool that I hope with the correct attachment will allow me to at a reasonable pace (somehow though, I feel that it will be a slow and tedious one instead), that will all in all allow me to polish the edges, if I get an unpolished edge sheet. Once the edges have been totally polished, or once I get a polished edge sheet, then I envision that I will need to carefully cushion the sheet into the frame. Thereafter I feel that carefully placing the frame into the slots and caulking the frame where it is attached to both the wall and to the basin, followed up by affixing the door frame to the top of the panel frame with a screw, should do the trick. 24-48 hours later, it should be a fully functional shower cabin once more.
So now, please bring on the advice. All the “to do”s and the “do not”s.
Thanking you all for your time and consideration.
Regards,
Isa
Solved! See most helpful response
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @isa. It's fantastic to see you make your first post after being a member for so long, and many thanks for your question about replacing a shower screen panel.
That sounds like a significant amount of work to restore an aged shower screen. I presume you've priced the glass, silicone, and tools and factored in your time and compared that to a budget-friendly screen option like the Estilo 900 x 1830mm Chrome Semi Frameless Shower Screen? Working with glass is fraught with dangers and risks that you'll crack the glass in the process. I've done this myself when replacing a glass panel. Even placing them on the ground the wrong way can cause them to shatter.
If your materials come close to even half the cost of the brand-new Estilo frame, then you should be considering whether replacing the screen entirely would make more sense. I'm all for a good D.I.Y. project and saving some money, but if you are talking about polishing the edges of the glass, then this sounds like a little too much work for the rewards.
Please be advised that when working with glass, it's essential to wear gloves, safety glasses, a long sleeve shirt and pants and enclosed footwear. Also, remember that glass panels shatter extremely easily; one tap on the edge and the glass can explode.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
Hi @isa
If you havent ordered the new glass then @MitchellMc idea of a new shower screen would be a great idea.
Consider getting a black framed verision to spice up new life in a bathroom as an option.
If you have ordered your glass take your frame in At least let them take the measurments (as there is no glass resizing options.) and let the glaziers reframe the new glass in the old frame they have all the gear and experiance to do this and often they dont charge extra for this service. But you saying they are? Try another glazier? or modest fee. This will mean highest success If they do it. If you do it and glass shatters you will have to buy new one how much is that.
When you pick up your new glass (in frame or out) make sure you transport it and carry it on it edge as it is the glasses strongest point and support it as evenly as possible.. Still not indestructable
Your glass is hardened saftey glass so its designed to shatter into a million pieces. Any tooling you attempt will 98% chance cause it to explode I am skilled and have cut glass before and flung caution to the wind and trying resizing a toughen glass panel given to me and resulted a massive failed attempt with the slightest sharp wrong tool bump, As a bonus was glass it fits into regular bin easy. do not use recycle shattered glass.
There is no need to try smooth glass edges as it is going into a frame.
Your old screen surly has old rubber seal for the glass I think you said so. That seal was designed to support your glass if it is the same thickness should be no need to caulking.
I hear you re cost of things. Plan B might be getting a polycarbonate sheet from a plastics perspex supplier it is machine able Increase its thickness to fit frame with out seal to increase its ridigity. But always clean soft cloth no chemicals.
Hello and thank you both, @MitchellMc and @Jewelleryrescue for your valid concerns and input. This is much appreciated.
I believe that I do have the correct tools and equipment to fit the glass into the frame.
I got a quote for the 6x850x1900 hardened glass panel, with rough/unpolished edges for $250, delivered. I will confirm if the sheet is recycled shattered glass or not. I was not even aware that this was a thing! Thank you for that valuable bit of advice, Jewelleryrescue 😉👍
This is the ensuite’s shower screen. The idea was to have the sheet delivered, laid flat on several clean throws, equally spread across, under the sheet of glass, on the bedroom’s carpet floor. Then either reusing the rubber seal that Jewelleryrescue mentioned, if it is salvageable, or this
https://www.bunnings.com.au/moroday-7-x-10mm-x-3m-white-u-channel-rubber-wire_p0011957
If not, what else may be used in the rubber seal’s place? I was actually thinking of caulking the channel of the frame with the correct type of silicone, then wrapping the frame around the glass sheet. I like the idea of the rubber seal better, but do not know how to search for it? The link I put up above, was the closest thing I got to what I was after. I would need to get the channel’s width before I would buy any seal. Hence the appeal of the silicone method. Just caulk away > fit/slide over edge of the glass panel > wipe away excess with some wet wipes (do not judge please 😖) > support the frame edges with some purpose size cut 2x4s to allow the frame to sit on it, with the weight of the glass sheet on the throws so the frame is centred on the glass sheet. Rubber seals would be much less labour intensive 😅 > wait for silicone to cure enough to move it around > I figure that it is a matter of then carefully raising the now framed sheet onto its side, then moving into the ensuite, and slotting it into the caulked channels affixed to the tile wall > caulking the two together, as well as the section of the frame that meets the shower’s base > affix the sliding door section via its screw to the glass panel frame > caulk the door’s base section to the framed glass panel > caulk the door frame to shower base > let it all cure for appropriate time > et voila.
This may not be enough, or it may be overkill. I am open to any and all suggestions.
Hi @isa
Just to correct my poor explaination . Broken glass any type or pyrex or hardened glass ie your shower glass can NOT be accepted into local council recycled bin.
There are NO recycled hardened glass products made I am aware of they are all new materials,
Your Plan key to success.
It is very important to put the empty glass frame back to its shape laying flat and square. You need to measure inside the frame where the glass will fit.
Measure and check this 3 times making sure the 6x850x1900 dimentions are correct. No sanding, no machining of glass please as it is not required if you measured glass right first time.
Look at the old glass rubber seal and try to see how it worked, This was designed for use with your frame no need to caulk if you discover old rubbers correct function.
Put glass on thick doona or blankets or phone books so it is off the floor 50mm approx with edges free of doonas
If the seal is unusable I would 1/3 fill frame with clear mold resistant bathroom silicone and slide it over the glass edge all the way around taping with duct tape to hold it in place square. check the frames measunents so you know it fits your old frame area.
Excess silicon should squeeze out between the glass and frame. Buy a roll of wipes and a some turps cleaner. first wipe excess silicon along silicon trail disposing of each wipe in garbage bag . TRy not to wipe across glass. Now wet fresh clean up clothes with turps and removing any surface silicon do a final frame cleanup with dry cloth polising frame and glass. Gentle turn glass over and repeat for the other side. Silicone will need 24 hours to start curing then re assemble your shower checking it is strong and wont fall apart. Store glass panel on its edge agaist a wall where people animals wont crash into it.
Well good luck with your project The plan will work but your glass measurments must be perfect size made to measure so it fits old frame.
Note Glazier could be out by 1-2 mm from your measurements this is life,
No glass sanding or machining Please.
Oh wow @Jewelleryrescue! Thank you very much for your detailed guide! I will go check the garage for the rubber seal
I look forward to seeing if everything is in place, and once everything is, then going ahead with the repair. I will post pictures up of my process here as well, if I do not forget to.
@Jewelleryrescue, thank you once more for your great advice. Take care, stay safe.
The frame for the sheet glass is still there, as is the rubber seal, phew! I was wondering if I had saved the seal at all, as it was so long ago. Yep, still there! That is the (white) rubber seal hanging off the edge of those MDF boards.
Also, I measured the inside of the channel/groove and it was 7.5mm. I was fortunate enough to also find a broken piece of glass stuck in the rubber seal. Boy am I glad I measured it before I placed the final order in, as it turned out being 4mm, and not 6mm 😅
If I had purchased the 6mm sheet, I would have probably thrown out the rubber seal and caulk it in instead, if it proved to be too difficult to fit with the seal.
Take care @isa and please strongly consider the advice presented above. Feel free to post anytime you need a hand and have further questions.
Jason
Hi @isa
Lucky that rubber seal had a friend in the garage and was safe and sound .
Ummmm But 4mm toughened glass Framed appears to be the minimum NSW standard.
From trying to zoom in on your seal it looks like the glass is placed inside the rubbed u shape seal then into the frame. Is that how you found the glass bit at least you know how it all works.
Is that white seal soft still? I might use a 5mm toughed glass with some silicone lube to upgrade your glass. 5 mm any more thickness may be a fail.
Reality check Your paying $250 for a sheet of glass delivered. 85% success rate estimated For an extra $500 you could have brand new modern shower screen possible installed in that price?
Dont forget you can get a polycarbonate sheet 4 and or 5 mm that will never break and use the same frame seal if you can get that delivered? might be cheaper than glass.
So Your the Boss here you do your math and i hope your 100% success
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