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Above images are from my laundry room. We want to remove this old sink and taps.
I am not sure if the water taps can be move from its existing place to towards the security screen. If this can be done, then what we want is to make space under the benchtop where dryer and washing machine can go side by side. if the taps cannot be moved from their exiting place, then the sink has to be at the centre of the bench top.
Also, opposite them is another wall. Attached is the image and we are not really sure if anything can be done here. any advice will be highly appreciated.
Thanks a lot Renovation-loving guys
Hi @Sugar,
Taps can be moved wherever you want, it's just a matter of employing a plumber to do so. I'd recommend moving the taps and sink next to the window. It's a better flow if the sink is in the corner.
I've created a rendering for you below based on a guesstimation of the floor size. If you can provide the dimensions of the space then I can double-check whether the design will work. The room is a bit too thin to have cabinetry on the opposite wall. However, you could look at doing some open shelves above head height.
Let me know what you think about the rendering and we can discuss the next steps.
Mitchell
This rendering looks perfect and is something we would like to achieve. Amazing job.
When you said, we can move the tap to where we want and we need a plumber to do it, I take it as this is something we cannot do it, is that right ?
if we can, what things do I need to be careful of? I believe this has to be done under the plasterboard.
And for opposite wall, we are still thinking what can be done here. You idea of cabinets above head heights is also a good option.
Thank you.
The relocation of taps and plumbing work needs to be completed by a registered plumber @Sugar. Unfortunately, it's not something you can do yourself. To save some coin, you can ask the plumber what work you can do to make their job easier. You could be removing plasterboard/tiles, and then repairing the plaster after they've left.
Mitchell
Hope you are doing well. Back to this project after 1 year. Parallelly planning other home project as well.
I am also looking into other inspirational projects in this forum.
Few questions :
We are planning to do the following ourselves.
Could you please help me to put above process on the sequence, what needs to be done when. I will be grateful.
Plus on your above 3D, do you know what are the items you used from Bunnings (like overhead cabinets), Benchtop and lower cabinets, so that we can go to the store and feel and see them physically.
Copying in @EricL as well. Hope this is okay.
Happy weekend.
Hi @Sugar,
The chance of damaging the plasterboard while removing the tiles is quite high. Once they are removed, you can assess the damage. If there is minimal damage, you might be able to patch it with a plaster repair kit. If there are larger holes or the sheet's integrity is compromised, then you would cut out that section of plasterboard and install a new sheet in its place.
It's best to install the flooring first, as doing so would be difficult if the new cabinetry is already in place.
Sequence-wise, I would suggest removing the tiles and repairing the wall, installing the flooring, building the cabinetry and installing, having the taps and outlets moved, and then tiling.
The cabinets used in the above rendering were a 450mm base cabinet, two 900mm slimline cabinets and a Hevea benchtop. Remember that was based on an approximation of size. If you take your exact sizes with you, then the Kitchen Expert in-store can assist with selecting appropriate cabinetry for the space.
Let me know if you have further questions.
Mitchell
@MitchellMc thank you.
Regarding the Sequence, wouldn't the plumber and/or electrician be needing free space to move the outlets from one place to another ? Wouldn't they be needing to tear the existing plasterboard to move the points? If then, wouldn't it be best to move the points first and then fix the wall and install the cabinets ?
That depends on where the points are going, @Sugar. So, there is only one base cabinet, and when I say "install", maybe "put into position" would be a better term. This allows the plumber to see the internals of the cabinet and create an access point for the water. The cabinet needs to be built and positioned for him to do this. Having it not fixed to the wall would be helpful so he can run the new sections of pipe.
Since the power points will be moved lower on the wall under the bench, the cabinet shouldn't interfere with those adjustments. Hopefully, the new powerpoints can be installed without damaging the plasterboard, but you're correct that the pipework installation could do. It really depends on the type of damage that occurs to the plasterboard from your tile removal. It might be an idea to hold off until the points and pipes are moved.
Mitchell
@MitchellMc Thank you.
Please help me to understand few things and if they are viable.
I am getting benchtop from IKEA and rest of the parts from Bunnings. Choose IKEA for benchtop just because of the fact that the depth of 640 and suits to hide machine perfectly. I hope I will not have integration issue, you think?
I visited Bunnings store yesterday and say how the sinks have been placed first and then benchtop on the top. Looks really nice. I have some pictures here.
I am getting someone to cut but I hope it is possible to do it in Laundry to and how do we do it?
also, while flooring on the laundry, how do we manage this hole on the floor?
I had one guy coming this week and he suggested that we need to have the washing machine raised and have some gap underneath so that the discharge pipe from sink (when installed on far left) can be router to the existing drain hole which would be sitting underneath the washing machine one installed it at the middle.
good advice from him but making sure on this forum also that there will always be a way to raise not only washing machine but dryer as well ( otherwise they will look uneven if done only DW) ? However, I believe that the cabinet that holding sink will need to be bought taller, plus side panels? Do you see any issues here?
thank you again
Hi @Sugar,
I can't imagine there would be any issue with that benchtop. The Kaboodle cabinets are around 580mm deep with the doors on, so the bench will overhang their front by around 60mm, which would be fine.
Those sinks are attached with adhesive after the bench is installed from underneath. You'll need to purchase a sink designed for under mounting, and it will include instructions on how to do so.
The drain grate must be raised slightly to be flush with the Hybrid flooring. It would be best to have a plumber do this for you.
It appears you do not intend to have the plumbing moved to the new sink position; instead, route the waste pipe to the existing floor piping. It sounds like the plumber has provided a solution for routing the pipework under the washing machine. As you've identified, raising both machines, the cabinet and panels for consistency would be best. This will require a custom plinth frame to be created for the machines to sit on, but that shouldn't be an issue for a handy person to achieve for you. I can't see any issue with this approach.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
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